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Today my furnace kicked on and immediately kicked back off. After looking at my programmable Hunter thermostat it stated no a/c power. Checked and was connected solid. I proceeded to jumper wires to determine if was 24 volts to get fan or furnace to come on. Nothing. Did some research and looks like I need to meter the teansformer input and output and check fuse. I have an Interthetm E3 Series and a heat pump also. I have the owners manual and looks like I just need to remove the cover on lower right side and that will expose wiring to the breakers and the transformer will be downstream. Does it sound like I am on the right track? If it is the teansformer or fuse would this be something normal that occurs? Ive had my home since new about 7 years and never had this issue. Also, would this be a special order part or is it standard I could pick up st Lowes? Not cool happening on Christmas Eve. Thx. And Merry Christmas!!!

Wow! No replies or input. Well I fixed it. One of the wires coing off the breaker of the furnace to the contractor was disconnected. Somehow the terminal had broken off. Quite odd. Simply cut off old and crimped new end on. Good to go. Wonder how much money I saved myself. Scary knowing loose live wire laying in there!

Glad you found it. It turns into a ghost town around here on holidays.

Greg

Very self gratifying. Another issue has come up actually right before this one. The heat pump fan isn't spinning. Just went out and it moves freely but when try to kick it on you can hear humming. Immediately shut off. We've been running emergency heat and fireplace. Did a little research and start capacitor seems to go out a lot. What's your take? Something I can swap out myself?

Also: for peace of mind. I used a crimp fitting that has the plastic collar at the end where the factory terminals are all metal. Basically you're normal electrical connector. Any issues?

Went out and took access panel off my Intertherm heat pump to check out capacitor. Real easy to access. Looks as IRS a dual run capacitor as it has the 3 ports on top. It disnt look as if any oil was leaking or bulged but definitely rusty. System is about 7 years old. Going to try to test it. Need get a multimeter I guess as mine don't have a capacitance setting. Where is best place to purchase from? Being rusty dunno if I will be able to get much specs off capacitor itself.

MikeVila wrote:Also: for peace of mind. I used a crimp fitting that has the plastic collar at the end where the factory terminals are all metal. Basically you're normal electrical connector. Any issues?

I don't think there should be issues, but I would personally replace the connector again and solder it to the wire. Since high temp (105C thermoplastic copper) is used, this would require a high temp soldering iron. Or maybe pull the whole thing off, take the assembly to a local car audio installer, and have them solder some new connectors onto it.

Then again, this is just my preference for these type of connectors.

Thx for the input thus far. I bought a better multimeter with capacitance and took off capacitor. Used screwdriver to discharge, honestly didn't notice it do anything. I have a 40+5.0UF 370vac. One side tested 40.24 and other 5.0. This is saying capacitor is good correct?
Was it supposed to do something more noticeable upon discharge?
Thought for sure it was it. Turn on and can hear it hum from inside condenser unit. Anything else I need to check electrically? Did I discharge right? False reading?

Were you able to get your unit running?
Since the capacitance you measured was within spec, did it turn out to be the fan motor itself?

I hop it was,nt good staff that your furnace get a good shock i hope you will use some good meters to measure the value of A/C it will good to have a good worker to you project which is expert to use it i hope you are working on big levels thanks...houston a c repair