Valve Clicking While Running

Questions about repairs and parts for Nordyne furnaces, air conditioners and heat pumps for manufactured homes including Intertherm, Mac and Miller brands. Click here for Nordyne parts.

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jtmarten
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 4:34 pm

Thu Apr 18, 2013 8:46 am

Hi All
About 3wks ago I had a new Nordyne (Maytag) M1MB090ABW installed to replace the problematic MGBB-090ABPQ-06 Nordyne unit. At first it had 1 loud click (relay/valve?) between the inducer running and the main blower coming on. Now it clicks 10-12 times. This morning it was clicking continuously while the furnace was running. I pulled the cover and its the valve that is clicking. :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:

I opened the inspection door to inspect the flame and flames nearly roasted my fingers off. Bright yellow flame front, possibly due to the increased air from opening the small door?

I'm getting soooooooo tired of issues with furnaces. Maybe should have bought a Coleman or any other brand instead of another Nordyne. :evil:

Is this indicative of a bad valve? Or some other issue?

Thanks!!!


DaleM
Posts: 385
Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2010 10:07 am

Sat Apr 20, 2013 10:35 am

Did they replace the roof jack as well?

jtmarten
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 4:34 pm

Tue Apr 23, 2013 2:16 pm

Yes. I believe the roof jack was the problem with the last furnace, and with the EPA decision in litigation, and a 16yr old furnace, I had both replaced.
I need to check the valve, make sure the installer set it up for propane use.

jtmarten
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 4:34 pm

Wed Apr 24, 2013 5:36 am

Checked it last night. Was not set up for propane. Appears the installer also made off with the propane orifice. (Somebody is going to get a phone call and Excedrin headache #43 today)
Luckily I stripped the parts I had recently replaced from the old furnace and have a #36 orifice.
Valve is now having problems keeping the flame lit. :evil:

jtmarten
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 4:34 pm

Wed Apr 24, 2013 10:03 am

Question on the LP conversion.

Other than the orifice and flipping the LP/NAT plug, is there anything else that needs changing? I've looked at some conversion kits and they seem to include other components.

Thanks!


jtmarten
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 4:34 pm

Thu Apr 25, 2013 7:39 pm

OK, I see that the conversion is simply flipping the LP/NAT cap.


Did some more troubleshooting. Glad I did before buying a valve. There is only 15.4v going to the valve instead of 24. The transformer is putting out a solid 27-28. Checking the plug harness coming out of the board I'm only getting 15.4v, sometimes the full 27-28 and it'll fire and run fine.

Relay sticking? Looks to be one of the 'G' 24v relays on the board. Anyone know which one controls the 24v to the valve? Should be an easy replacement (too bad they don't appear to be socketed!).

DaleM
Posts: 385
Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2010 10:07 am

Thu Apr 25, 2013 11:32 pm

There should be an oriface to replace on there as well. Since it is a new furnace it should be under warranty. Get a new board shipped to you.

jtmarten
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 4:34 pm

Fri Apr 26, 2013 11:31 am

Thanks Dale, sorry, should have specified I swapped the orifice as well. The valve is just clicking now due to low voltage.

jtmarten
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 4:34 pm

Fri Apr 26, 2013 12:22 pm

Nordyne told me to have my service tech contact them for a replacement part. :evil:

I'll just have to order a new board, they're only $104 shipped, cheaper than it would cost me to have a tech diagnose it and get the part from Nordyne. At least I'll be able to replace the 24v relays on the bad board and have a virtually new board sitting on the shelf for the future.

jtmarten
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 4:34 pm

Wed May 01, 2013 2:36 pm

Found a new board for $80 shipped. Should be delivered today; just in time too .... its coooooollllllddddd out there.

jtmarten
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 4:34 pm

Wed May 01, 2013 5:24 pm

Ok, new board installed ...... same thing. Valve starts clicking, flame ignites, valve continues clicking, flame goes out after about 30sec.
Board does have 24v going to the valve now.
Transformer putting out consistent 27v.

Anything else that could cause this?

jtmarten
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 4:34 pm

Wed May 01, 2013 6:07 pm

If I open the inspection door a bit while its igniting, it seems to burn OK. I'm wondering if the guy that installed the system screwed something up with the roof jack.

DaleM
Posts: 385
Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2010 10:07 am

Sun May 05, 2013 8:59 am

As sad as it sounds you could have many things causing this problem on a new furnace. Here's a quick run down of what can cause that flame to go out during the heating cycle.

1. Insufficient oxygen in combustion chamber.
a. Check to be sure air intake assembly is clear or debris. Remove black motor at right of unit along with 4" intake pipe. Be sure there is nothing blocking any part of the assembly. Reinstall with silicone caulk around all joints so when blower comes on it will not cause a change in pressure within the air intake system.
b. Check intake and exhaust connection at top of furnace. Pull screw on outer roof jack pipe, 8", and slide up about 8"-10" so you can access inner pipe. Look at inner pipe to be sure it is fully seated on combustion chamber exhaust collar. Slide that up and using a mirror be sure no debris fell into either of these upper furnace assemblies during installation. If nothing found slide inner pipe down until it is FULLY seated on exhaust collar on furnace. Then slide outer pipe down until flush with cabinet top and reinstall screw.

2. Flame not being sensed correctly.
a. Igniter has hairline crack in it. These will work to ignite furnace but will lose ability to prove flame. This one is a bitch because it is intermittent in nature.
b. Improper ground in home and subsequently to furnace. Run a seperate ground to your furnace and attach it to a known good ground. If one is not available drive in an 8' ground rod and attach to that. This is a vital part of the flame sensing operation!!

3. Furnace goes out ONLY when blower is running.
a. Run unit with doors removed, if it solves the problem, the seals on the intake pipe and intake motor are not good and need to be redone. See above.

jtmarten
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 4:34 pm

Mon May 06, 2013 9:46 am

Thanks for the excellent advice Dale!

I had a different tech look at it Sat afternoon. Looks like the roof jack is once again the culprit. He bypassed the pressure switch and it runs fine. The inducer tube/motor were clear. We think there was a buildup of soot in the roof jack due to the installer not setting the valve for LP use. The installer said the roof jack I got was too short, so he cut a section of the old roof jack to extend it. I doubt he cleaned it out, so it was probably partially plugged with soot already. I checked the roof vent and it is solid, pure black. So, it looks like I'll have to replace the roof jack with the next larger size. :(

DaleM
Posts: 385
Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2010 10:07 am

Tue May 07, 2013 8:54 pm

Roof jack too short for sure!! Probably pulling exhaust gases back through on the intake side due to a bad seal between the old and new parts. There is a little difference in diameter between the old stuff and the new stuff on the roof jacks. Look into getting a proper roof jack extension kit. Usually cheaper than an entire roof jack and since it is manufactured for the new equipment it WILL fit correctly. Problem solved!!

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