Hello everyone, this weekend I was up at my recreational land which I just bought this year and it has a 1985 Wick mobile home with a 1985 coleman 7970-856 propane furnace. About 6 weeks ago I had my furnace checked by a HVAC company with a good reputation and they cleaned it up and put in a new thermocoupler as it was over due for replacing.
Today, I noticed the smallest hint of a propane smell if I put my nose right up to the gas valve. The smell seemed to be coming from the screw next to the port where the thermocoupler is attached. The screw has a label on it that says "this unit is equiped for propane". Im wondering if this is normal or something I should have checked. Like I said you really have to put your nose close to it to smell it. I once had a propane stove that leaked propane vapor through out the whole house and that was a little bit of a nerve wracking experience although the guy from the propane company that came and fixed it seemed unconcerned with any danger...
So based on my description does this sound normal or something that could lead to a problem? I should also mention that this furnace has worked flawlessly since I took ownwership and provides plenty of heat for all rooms of the 16'x66' mobile home. If you guys need more info let me know...
Mike
Possible gas leak on propane furnace.
Thanks for the replies guys. I have a guy coming to look at it on Friday, which is the soonest I can get back up there.
Few more questions for ya...
Is it possible that gas can leak from the Thermocoupler as the area near where the Thermocoupler is attached seems to be very close to where the propane smell is coming from.
And second, This furnace although it seems to run great is getting old (21 years)and I think I want to replace it in the somewhat near future. What would be the best possible replacement for a Coleman 7970-856 propane furnace and do furnaces for mobile homes have to be HUD approved? I know that the guy coming to look at my furnace is an Amana dealer but I cant find anything on the Amana website for mobile homes.
Anyways, thanks for any info.
Mike
Few more questions for ya...
Is it possible that gas can leak from the Thermocoupler as the area near where the Thermocoupler is attached seems to be very close to where the propane smell is coming from.
And second, This furnace although it seems to run great is getting old (21 years)and I think I want to replace it in the somewhat near future. What would be the best possible replacement for a Coleman 7970-856 propane furnace and do furnaces for mobile homes have to be HUD approved? I know that the guy coming to look at my furnace is an Amana dealer but I cant find anything on the Amana website for mobile homes.
Anyways, thanks for any info.
Mike
Usually the pilot tube nut is close to the thermocouple. If he removed it he may not have tightened it back or the tube could have a bad ferrell in front of the nut.
You have to replace your furnace with one approved for mobile home use. I do not believe Amana makes one. Coleman and Nordyne and Mortex are the most common brands.
I am sticking with my old unit till the heat exchanger goes bad. The reason is not financial but for me common sense. The newer furnaces are much more trouble prone. That is because they have more parts to go bad especially circuit boards that are around 200.00 to 250.00 just for that part.
Another item you may think about and I have also had this thought is an electric furnace. A cost benefit analysis in my area for propane as compared to electric figures out that electric would be just a bit cheaper to operate.
If you have a 200 amp electric panel you are in good shape for electric furnace change over instead of using propane. Another nice thing about electric is that they do not have the problems associated with propane/oil furnaces and the parts are much cheaper.
hvac1000
You have to replace your furnace with one approved for mobile home use. I do not believe Amana makes one. Coleman and Nordyne and Mortex are the most common brands.
I am sticking with my old unit till the heat exchanger goes bad. The reason is not financial but for me common sense. The newer furnaces are much more trouble prone. That is because they have more parts to go bad especially circuit boards that are around 200.00 to 250.00 just for that part.
Another item you may think about and I have also had this thought is an electric furnace. A cost benefit analysis in my area for propane as compared to electric figures out that electric would be just a bit cheaper to operate.
If you have a 200 amp electric panel you are in good shape for electric furnace change over instead of using propane. Another nice thing about electric is that they do not have the problems associated with propane/oil furnaces and the parts are much cheaper.
hvac1000
I have to agree with you on the newer furnaces. They are more trouble prone because they are more complicated. I may just keep this furnace till the heat exchanger goes bad as well. Like I said it runs very well and puts out alot of heat -- no problems there. I have a feeling this little leak is going to be an easy fix.
I would love an electric furnace, but I think propane is cheaper in this area. I would say that 75% of houses in this area use propane and the rest use wood or a combination of both. I have an electric water heater and it's great. No worrying about leaks and I can turn it on and off at will and run it when my kw/h charges from my power company are cheaper. Im on the "time of use" plan with my power company. The rate is .19 cents kw/h for weekdays between 9am and 8pm but all other time on the nights and weekends are only 5 cents per kw/h. This works out well cause Im usually only there on the weekends. When I last had my propane tank filled in October the rate was $1.58 gallon. Is there an easy way I can figure out which is cheaper? If I changed my time of use plan to a flat rate with my electric company the charge is .10 cents kw/h. I also pretty sure I only have 100amp electric service so Im not sure if upgrading to 200amp would be prohibitively expensive.
Thanks for the info.
Mike
I would love an electric furnace, but I think propane is cheaper in this area. I would say that 75% of houses in this area use propane and the rest use wood or a combination of both. I have an electric water heater and it's great. No worrying about leaks and I can turn it on and off at will and run it when my kw/h charges from my power company are cheaper. Im on the "time of use" plan with my power company. The rate is .19 cents kw/h for weekdays between 9am and 8pm but all other time on the nights and weekends are only 5 cents per kw/h. This works out well cause Im usually only there on the weekends. When I last had my propane tank filled in October the rate was $1.58 gallon. Is there an easy way I can figure out which is cheaper? If I changed my time of use plan to a flat rate with my electric company the charge is .10 cents kw/h. I also pretty sure I only have 100amp electric service so Im not sure if upgrading to 200amp would be prohibitively expensive.
Thanks for the info.
Mike
It can be tested many ways. The most common is to use a high viscous bubble type fluid. And dob it on all gas lines/fitting areas it will develop bubbles to show a leak is present. Next is a hand held combustible leak detector. They cost more money than the bubbles/soap type but they can sniff out very small leaks.
I for got to add that another test for gas lines is a system pressure test. Usually the gas valve is plugged or caped off for this test. You pressurize the line at a much higher pressure than normal Then you watch the gauge to check for pressure drop. This is usually done on new installs and if you run out of propane because the system might have a leak. If you run out of propane in our area they charge $60.00 for the gas supplier to run the test. This test is required by the local authority having jurisdiction. IE the building department. If the propane company fails to test and provide docs to the county they are fined 1000.00. Naturally they do the test.
WARNING!!!! never use a match or lighter especially on propane. Propane is heavier than air and will pocket at the floor level. When you find a leak with a match or lighter you may get more burning than anticipated and if enough is there it will flash off and go BOOM.
hvac1000
I for got to add that another test for gas lines is a system pressure test. Usually the gas valve is plugged or caped off for this test. You pressurize the line at a much higher pressure than normal Then you watch the gauge to check for pressure drop. This is usually done on new installs and if you run out of propane because the system might have a leak. If you run out of propane in our area they charge $60.00 for the gas supplier to run the test. This test is required by the local authority having jurisdiction. IE the building department. If the propane company fails to test and provide docs to the county they are fined 1000.00. Naturally they do the test.
WARNING!!!! never use a match or lighter especially on propane. Propane is heavier than air and will pocket at the floor level. When you find a leak with a match or lighter you may get more burning than anticipated and if enough is there it will flash off and go BOOM.
hvac1000
Thanks for the quick reply hvac1000. He did do a bubble test on friday and found no leaks anywhere. And Ive had the system pressure checked twice in the last 3 months and nothing was found to be a problem.
I think I may be going a bit overboard from my previous experience with a stove that leaked very badly a while back during the night. That was a little scary, but I know alot more now and had it fixed promptly.
The only thing he found is that I believe the oriface as he called it--the part that determines propane or natural gas use didnt have the plastic cap on the top of it that it usually has. He put one on for me.
Sometimes I still think I can smell it, but I have noticed it doesnt collect by the floor like propane usually would. And the smell really is pretty faint. I dont think the hvac tech was able to smell it, but Ive been told I have a very sensitive nose
Anyway, thanks for all your help.
Mike
I think I may be going a bit overboard from my previous experience with a stove that leaked very badly a while back during the night. That was a little scary, but I know alot more now and had it fixed promptly.
The only thing he found is that I believe the oriface as he called it--the part that determines propane or natural gas use didnt have the plastic cap on the top of it that it usually has. He put one on for me.
Sometimes I still think I can smell it, but I have noticed it doesnt collect by the floor like propane usually would. And the smell really is pretty faint. I dont think the hvac tech was able to smell it, but Ive been told I have a very sensitive nose
Anyway, thanks for all your help.
Mike
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