Coleman Furnace Problem - Blower Motor Won't Start

[Guest]

You have two wires coming directly from the motor (both black on diagram).

Yes


They come down and slide into the connector plug at the 8 and 9 holes.

No, 6 and 9 This the problem?

Out the other side of connector block at the 8 hole is a white wire that goes to transformer.

Yes

Out the other side of 9 hole is a orange wire that goes to top terminal of fan switch.

Yes


Is all that correct ?


Did you cut the two blabk ? wires coming from motor at point where they slide into the connector plug ?

Then you straight wired a switch to those two wires going straight to motor ?

Is all this correct ?

Yes

You'll have heat still, but may not need the switch. Stay with me here.

If this don't work, you can wire switch back.

[Guest]

9 holes

Top to Bottom, Left to Right

Top: White, Blue(loop), Red
Middle: Black(motor), Blue(loop), Black(loop)
Bottom: Black(motor), EMPTY, Black(loop)

[Guest]

Check email, I took a picture of the connector block with the wires coming out.

[Robert]

Ok.

To fix, you'll need to get two molex pins, we sell them and crimp them to the two black wires to motor.

Then, if you remember which went where, slide the black wire tight back into the 9 hole where it was.

Then slide the other black wire into the 8 hole.

If you wish to test this, cut the orange wire where it goes into the bottom 9 hole.

Wire nut it to black motor wire that went to top 9 hole.

Then cut the white wire to bottom 8 hole and wire nut to black motor wire that you had in 6 hole.

If you need ordering info for molex pins, let me know.

The way you had it wired, you were sending 220volts to a 110V motor.

Hopefully no damage has occurred.

Thanks,
Robert

[Guest]

Got it Robert. That was the problem. I moved 6 to 8. I rechecked the diagram and 6 is supposed to be empty. I turned the T-stat up and it fired up. I waited to hear the click, it click and the blower motor started up nice and smoothly (no sounds of damage, I'm sure its life span has been cut) The furnace seems to be running smoothly.

Thank you so much for staying up and giving a guy a hand, I really appreciate your help, yours too Mark. I'm gonna stay up for awhile longer and keep an eye on things.

I got the pins out and right now I've got wirenuts on them with black tape.

[Robert]

Hi,

You're very welcome, glad you got her taken care of.

If needed, the Molex Parts are at bottom half of this page:

http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/FurnaceElec.html

You would need two male pins and two female pins.

Crimp to wires normally, then slide two males in the male half and two females in femal side.

May have to remove another wire carefully to see which side is male and female.


You can get 16 male for $5.95 and 16 female for $5.95.


For $39, you can get a kit of pins and connector plugs.

Shipping = $6 - $10 .

To order you add items to cart and order through PayPal or call toll free to 1-877-263-7860 and charge to Visa or Mastercard.


This is just for your info if needed.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert

[Guest]

I think the connectors are fine, the blower motor wires had to be cut though, I have them twisted together and taped for now, but let me pick your brain once more. The furnace is equipped with a blend-air system and the timer motor sounds like a loud fast clock. TICK TICK TICK TICK. The blend-air system works fine. This has done this since we've had the place. Does it need to be replaced?

[Robert]

Possibly, haven't heard any that loud. Go here and try these steps to check for proper operation:

http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/ArticleBlendAir.html


Thanks,
Robert

[Robert]

BTW, are you referring to this:

http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/media/i ... 1-3231.jpg


The Damper Motor.

Be back on here later today.


Thanks,
Robert

[Guest]

Yes Robert, that's it. The blend-air system is working properly but the damper motor ticks loud.

[Robert]

Hi,

Go here to order if needed:

http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/ColemanBlendAir.html

Damper Motor #7681-3231 @ $59.71 + $12 shipping.


If it all seems to work fine, you would have to accept the noise or replace to try and get rid of it.

Can't say if that would do it, but I haven't heard any ticking loudly yet, so it would most likely solve it or greatly reduce it.

Thanks,
Robert