I am insured through Allstate.

Wow. The only way I can see to deal with the water is to build up the dirt underneath. Trouble with that is the loose dirt will still hold water. I would then cover the ground with 6 mil plastic sheeting, which will at least keep the air drier underneath so your floors won't absorb the moisture and ...

So - do you just have the concrete building blocks with the open cores facing the ground without a solid block underneath? If so, yes, you do need a solid block underneath. They are called cap blocks, and are $1.29 at Lowe's. They provide more surface area to spread the weight than the thin edges of...

Any roughness, imperfections. etc in the subfloor will telegraph through the vinyl.
That's why they specify the subfloor.

You probably have a leak in the supply. I went in to the bedroom the other day and stepped on wet carpet. One of the pb fittings for the tub supply inside the wall had cracked. It was a pain to get to, but easy to fix with pb to pex transition fittings, new shutoff valves, and flex supply lines to t...

Even a utility knife will cut it. It depends on how long you want to take to make each cut. I'd say go ahead and try your tubing cutter first. I say brass fittings also.

The bathroom vents do nothing for the attic, so you have 4 attic vents. I would at least add more vents. You will thank yourself when the home stays cooler in the sun.

Last time I had a gong sound was when an improperly installed block in a support column shattered.

Take a picture of the sink from top and underneath. Measure the size of the current cutout in the counter. Take photos and measurements to your local home/hardware store. They can get you something that will fit. You may have to enlarge the cutout.

I think it would be best to get a couple new pieces of vertical siding as Housemedic said. By making it continuous from top to bottom, you won't have that horizontal ledge to hold the water.

Who knows what they do. When I had my shingled roof replaced, I found that the factory apparently felt they had too large a gap at the peak, so they bridged it with a 3 foot chunk of vinyl siding corner trim.

It doesn't look like the problem was with the windows themselves, but rather improper flashing. Note that the window framing is fine, the problem looks to have come from leakage in the corners between the windows. Look how that piece of vertical trim ends just before the bottom of the window. I see ...

Don't overlook the possibility that the leak is above the windows. You have that flat roof over the windows, and all that fancy trim work looks like it is just begging for water intrusion.
If the flashing was not done properly, that could be the issue.

If you want to replace all the plumbing, PEX is very easy to work with, and the tubing itself is cheap. As to your problem, I would first examine any shutoff valves; one may be defective or clogged. Have you tried closing/opening the main valve where the park's supply comes out of the ground beneath...

I would go underneath with both, if only to keep water from leaking over the tub edge and wicking between the underlayment and the subfloor. same for the counter. plus, if you ever need to change the counter, you won't have to deal with different floor heights.