You should get 220v between M1 and orange when thermostat is calling for heat. Try this, kill power, take the black lead from the blower switch off of M2 and put it on M1. Set the blower switch to ON and try the furnace. That would change wiring to test sequencer, blower already works in ON position...

Get a shop vac with a couple extensions, no end nozzle. Get up on the roof and pull the top cap. Drop the vac wand down the inner tube of the roof vent and vacuum out the rust, it's blocking flue gases and they cannot exit. Looking down in there with a flashlight you will only see what looks like a ...

Okay I printed out page 15 of the schematic. How many wires on the switch? Switch posted has 6 terminals drawing shows 3 wires. Going from the drawing, Black lead to switch is always energized (M2 on the sequencer) and will be the fan ON side of the switch. Yellow is energized from the sequencer (M1...

You any good with a multitester? You could pull the rocker switch out and test the AUTO side of it. Could be that side of the switch is cooked out.

Perimeter blocking may solve your problem. First you would need to attach a 2x4 or 2x6 horizonatally down the length of each side under the mobile home equivalent of the sill plate so that your blocking has something to "push" up against. The width of that board will depend on the length o...

Low fire is caused by 2 things, either you're not getting enough gas through to the main burner or you're not getting enough fresh air for proper combustion. A blockage in the oriface or a blockage in the flue assembly. You have to remove the oriface to check for a spider web. Pull the valve, remove...

Any chance this is a multi-speed blower? Has to be one of 2 things. Quite possible the heat/ low speed winding in the motor has gone bad. By setting the fan switch to ON you are energizing the high speed winding, typically used for ac, because that is the way the switch is wired. OR there is a relay...

A few things. Did anyone check to see if there was a web in the main burner oriface? Did anyone pull the termination cap to see if any rust was built up on the flue baffle? Is there any evidence on the top of the furnace that looks like you have a roof leak?

Good deal.

Let me know what color ALL the wires are on your blower. Any orange wire on it? Is there a capacitor wired into 2 brown wires on the motor as well? Like I said I don't repair too many electric units and don't have a schematic for your model. Working from my head and older Coleman electric furnace sc...

Glad that worked for you. Good talking with you the other night. Stay warm and take care!!

Pull the motor and wire it up direct. That would isolate the motor from all the relays and such in the furnace. If multi speed white will be neutral and pick any other color for hot, those are just different speeds.

If you suspect the blower is running on it's highest speed for heat then you need to change it. Follow the black lead (high) to where it is connected to either a circuit board or speed selector terminal set. Pull it and replace it with the red(low) wire. Not real familiar with electric furnaces as w...

If pilot is lit and burning there is a quick test to see if t-stat is a problem. Take t-stat out of system by removing the red and white wires from the t-stat at the furnace. Twist red and white from furnace together and the unit should begin to operate. If not there is either no primary voltage (12...

It is rare but I've seen it before, is the line feeding the pilot assembly steel or aluminum? If steel they can rust internally. The dust that rust creates is very fine and can block a pilot oriface. You can do 2 things, 1) pull burner/pilot assembly and blow through pilot tube with air, also disass...