I have had good luck with drywall "clips" for blind corners and as for the glue...comes off easy with a power planer. My only concern would be that I would need to see whats behind the paneling (insulation, water damage, vapor barrier). As for the door jambs...just rip a filler strip of ma...

You are getting condensation because the hot air from inside is going up and out the duct. If you install a over/range microwave, just use ductless set up and insulate the duct from the inside...stopping hot air escape and condensation. The only other way is to make sure you have a good damper on th...

It looks to me like you have to change the exhast fan anyway so pull it out and you can check the underside of roof as Dean said. That type of vent is common to have ice dams backfeed the exhaust hole. One solution (in the spring or better weather) is to build a 2 x 4 curb, flash that and put vent o...

I also live in Michigan and have gone thru the same crazy weather cycle. The condensation forms because you have single pane windows. All you can do is change window to insulated glass, add storm windows or add plastic window treatment for winter weather. Not only is condensation forming on the glas...

I would add Tyvek to the outside from the inside covering the studs in a in/out fashion. This would stop air movement from the outside (air movement with condensation causes mold on cellulose material) and allow moisture to escape. This would also allow a cavity to install fiberglass batts which wou...

I would think that I would start by the water/sewer/gas and electric supplies because you cannot afford to stretch these

I have a Coleman Heat/A/C combo with natural gas. I would like to install a programmable thermostat. The only thing that throws me is that there is a A/C / Heat switch on the furnace that controls which system you wish to use. I assume that I would still have to switch the furnace switch every seaso...

Another method of installing fiberglass insulation is to use piano wire supports.
They are pieces of wire cut a 1/4" wider than the joist space, Just push them up 1/2" onto the bottom edge of the joist and walla, no need for staples, You can make them from suspended ceiling suspension wire.

Most outlets have 2 spaces to plug things in....if you are able.....change the single outlet plug to a double

If you dont find an obvious leak you could dial down the air flow at all the other registers
and as already said...keep your door open for return air to the furnace.

I agree with Yanita...pull the old paneling so you can check out the insulation, wiring and any water damage. You also will not run into trouble at doors and windows because of the added 1/4"

You got it right..turn off the shutoff and open the spigot and heat tape is used every day by every MH. it is safe as long as you check it for wear and replace according to manufacturer recommendations

Styrofoam insulation board (4 x could be screwed with fender washers to the joists to hold things up giving insulation and protection. Only thing is the thicker you go the more it cost but the thicker it is the better it insulates

That flange is supposed to be behind (or even)with the new drywall. Fill in the gap with quick setting compound and then tape over the joint other wise you get a bulge. I have done it many times like this and never had a crack. As far as outside wall you could cover it with plastic to stop moisture ...

Go to Camping World..they have everything you need