After researching and stressing over whether or not my paint would stick to the wallboard, I tried searching for experiences on removing the vinyl, didn't find many, but I did stumble across TONS of experiences with damaged drywall after peeling off wallpaper. I had accidentaly removed some of the v...

You definitely need to have a good base, if you're wallpapering over damaged wallpaper or unfinished drywall seal the wall with Gardz (google it) then paste and paper your heart away. Since the sealer dries clear, you could use that afterwards too to lock in the pattern you've applied.

These are pretty self explanatory. I used chemical caulk remover, a caulk remover tool, and a funny looking bristly brush attachment for my Dremel to remove the old caulk. There was a huge gap at one corner, instead of using a backer rod I spray some Great Stuff Door and Window (it's remains flexibl...

Using rope caulk seems like a better option for some larger gaps I have in the corners of my rooms vs using the foam rod.
Q- Can I use rope caulk as a backer rod, then top with paintable caulk for a smooth finish?

The pictures don't do it justice, I took them very close up, and what remains is really so little- but I'm really worried because everything I read says to remove ALL TRACES of old caulk, and I really don't think this is possible! My new caulk will be the Dap 3.0 Advanced Kitchen and Bath Adhesive C...

thanks everyone, I'm glad to hear that others haven't been able to get all the caulk off. I've gotten the main seam off, but there's like little caulk residue where the edges of the caulk once were, I've used caulk remover, a utility knife at a horizontal and 45 degree angle, a flat razor scraper bl...

Hi, I know you're supposed to remove all the old caulk and then de-mold or clean the seal before you recaulk it (between tub and bottom of shower wall liner), but my seal was so cracked and brittle that I can't get it all off, I'm talking heavy duty utility knife, razor scraper, and caulk remover to...

oooh, I had no idea about the mud base, maybe I'll go with a MH specific tub

thank you for the feedback, I'll have to look up my water heater, but my bathroom was built for the garden tub upgrade so I'm pretty sure it's big enough...

Greg how did the Kilz go on for you?
I hear so much about Sherwin Williams and Ben Moore, but they're so expensive, and I like that Kilz has primer mixed in with the paint...

my ceilings are really high, so no worries about a bumped head.
is it possible to replumb a tub that sits flush with the floor (there's no supports or foam under the tub part *so it's deeper than normal tubs*)?

this platform is a little over the top, but it has the general idea I was talking about...

couldn't I build like a 6-8 inch platform where the new tub will go, with access to the pipes, so that I don't have re-route anything through the underbelly?

Old tub (MH standard) has center back drain, no overflow, new tub (Menards fiberglass standard no bells and whistles) has drain where faucet is, I guess that would be left.
#1- What does re-plumb mean (seen in lots of posts)
#2- How to re-plumb from center back to left?

Please help

I've been looking at your pics for a while, while I was deliberating on whether to use peel and stick vinyl, laminate, or paint for my floors, you were a great help!