Hello.

I need to remove a welded on hitch, as I'm building a deck right where the hitch is. What would be the best way to go about this?

I'm thinking either a reciprocating a saw, or a circular saw with perhaps a carbide blade?

I think I'll insulate it.

Thanks for the input Greg.

Huh?

How does that relate to my question?

By "underbelly", are you referring to the plastic covering, or the whole crawl space under the mobile? Either way, that plastic isn't going to stop rodents. The best way to stop rodents is making sure your skirting is sealed tight. With of course, metal screening for the vents in the summer.

Hello. Before I begin....yes, my venting is adequate :) My double wide sits on the ground and only has 4" of bat insulation in the floor. In the winter, the crawl space was fairly warm, but I was losing considerable heat through the 1/2" plywood skirting. I insulated half of the perimeter ...

Great.

Thanks Greg!

Hello.

I've replaced half of the 3/8 copper with pex, now I'm doing the other half of the MH which has the HW tank.

Do I need to drain and/or release the pressure on the tank?

Well, you didn't answer my question as to how the ratio was derived lol, but I doubt anyone knows.

If however we go by that standard, does that compensate for the screen resistance?

Greg wrote: Ventilation should be around 1sq/ft. per every 150 sq/ft of floor area.

Hi Greg.

I'm curious to know how that ratio was derived.

Also, the amount of ventilation would be dependent on the moisture levels in ones area.

You're welcome.

It's worth a try as removing panelling is pain in the butt, and no matter how careful you try to be, it often breaks.

See if you can remove the bottom shelf to expose the base plate. You might have to remove any sort of "kick plate" first.

The thermostat is just a temperature sensitive switch. It shouldn't have anything to do with your issue.

I've replaced every door in my MH with standard sizes, which of course meant widening the openings. Do yourself a favour and go with pre-hung, as comparatively, non-pre hung are a PITA.

I think I would take eveything down, Underneath I am sure you will find the plastic filler strips damaged. I would run very thin wood strips to cover them, using thin paneling nails once you locate the ceiling studs on either side of the plastic strip. Use some cheap paintable corner molding where ...

I had the same relay click/no start issue with my Nordyne. Lightly tapping anywhere on the board would cause the furnace to start, but I couldn't determine what relay wasn't able to close, or if the relay problem was actually a power problem on the board. The board wasn't expensive (around$120.00......