Greg, are you talking about changing the house's roof pitch? Current pitch is about the minimum that it can be, in which case I really cannot make it any less/more shallow.

The deck width will be about 25' and the porch's width will be about 15'.

Greg, no, not going to try and cover the entire deck. I'd already set up sight lines on the "wings" and found that the existing roof line would drop too much if I extended out to the outside of the deck (except the gabled/dormer section). I have not seen/heard of anyone mating up (in a float) metal ...

" it looks like quite a job to get electric there" Could you elaborate as to why you believe this to be the case? In case you had not already considered it, you can surface-mount an electrical raceway/conduit. Eliminates cutting and snaking wiring inside walls. But, really, with drills and fish tape...

I am working up some plans for a new deck (with porch). I have a question on footings and on the general design of a porch. Regarding footings, I'm wondering whether I need to change to having all posts resting on concrete piers (which are sunk about 2' [frost line is 12" to 18" here]) or whether I ...

Code I referred to is from WA State, based on International code. It's not HUD, but I cannot see how physics could be different between standard home construction and HUD stuff.

Ah, same climate as I am in! I heat with wood, in which case it's a little hard to identify my actual energy consumption. I estimate about 5 cords of alder and maple (obtained from my property) per heating season: this from October through April. This keeps my 1377 sq-ft house more than warm. I'd lo...

You do NOT need a regular service if you get things sealed up properly. I am currently addressing a rodent issue at my place. It's been on my TODO list for a while (higher priorities). I am completely re-doing my skirting (will be using metal roofing material [chew proof!]). It costs, yes, but once ...

As I was researching for some unrelated construction activities I ran across my county's code covering ventilation and this is what is says: R408.1 Ventilation. The under-floor space between the bottom of the floor joists and the earth under any building (except space occupied by a basement) shall h...

"Sealed" means no entry points, no gaps/holes. If they're burying under the blocks they you'll need to dig down around the exterior of the block and put down some wire mesh: I'm guessing this is your best bet; others can speak to what's best. I don't like poison as it usually results in critters dyi...

Knowing where you are at would be a big help. You at least want a vapor barrier (which the original belly wrap material is). Venting is a can of worms. I'm going to forgo vents except on the ends: vent during winter, close up for summer. I've got a slab with plastic on top of it. Slab that I've got ...

Sigh... as is the case with all lumber, the actual size is less. My 7 x 1/2 is 6 1/2 x 3/8. That means the difference is more like 3/8". I'm just going to plug the stupid thing and seal it up, as it won't be visible behind a gutter anyway.

What's the best, most durable, board to use for a belly band? I'm wanting to go with a 1x4, up-sized from 1x3 (which is particle board, I believe). Existing is damaged and was installed using non-galvanized nails (has rust bleed-through). I am up-sizing in order to provide a top channel to contain n...

Greg, I'm not following on how I can match up a 1" wide board to the existing 1/2" board(s).

Here's what I'm looking at:

I have a section of fascia board, about 3" x 3", which got ripped out when one of my gutters pulled out from last winter's snow. The board measures 6 1/2" x 1/2" (or just slightly less), which I figure would be stated as being 7" x 1/2". I am unable to locate this dimension. I'd look to trim a wider...

I'm about to embark on a similar project (caused by the same ignorant construction by a former owner). I will be watching!

How much of the stud is rotted?

Might be able to shim in pieces of 2x (if only a few inches rotted).