OK, finally got at it! JoistRemovedResized.jpg Q: What works best to cut the ends of the floor joists? I've got a Sawzall. Q: Should I cut or just hammer flat the flooring staples that were attaching to the rim joist? And, should I look to tie in the sill plates to the new rim joist pieces (nail)? Q...

I'll be needing to replace a rear door (as part of my rim joist repair). I've never replaced a door before. I have on-hand a new one that is pre-hung. The original door's sill plate had a piece of wood running across underneath (I have this on the front door, and it's significantly broken down). Rat...

I'm rethinking whether to end-nail or just go with Simpson joist hangers for reconnecting the floor joists. Seems that the hangers would be a lot more rigid. I know I'll have to do this for a few joists that will behind where the overlap is.

Yeah, I'd spotted that article (which is why I was leaning toward silicone). Just kind of looking for feedback on folks' experiences. It's not a real big deal, as everything is going to be much better than it was before, but if I'm applying my time I like to do the best that can be done (and be done...

Could a moderator [please] correct the misspelling in the Subject line? Should be "caulking" (not "calking").

I need to keep water from entering between my skirting's sill plate (pressure treated 2x4) and the concrete pad it's bolted to. The pad extends a good foot past the siding/skirting, in which case water tends to collect. What caulking would work best? Butted back against the sill plate (and skirt fra...

I located a 6x hanger and I am thinking that I might go that route: might do all joists that way as that would be more secure.

16D nails, about 3 to 4 appears to be the prescribed way to fasten.

I'm not going pressure treated as I shouldn't have a rot problem when things are finished properly.

What you're saying is that it's not flat. I had quite the issue/annoyance with my place when I got it in that the flooring cupped quite a bit and I was in the process of putting down laminates (removed old, crappy carpeting). I ended up using leveling compound. 3/4" seems like quite a bit. I'd put u...

Another question...

Q: How to join the new rim joist piece (filler piece) with the existing (the single outer rim joist)?

Would mending plates be of any value? With 24" or so of overlap with a sister board I'm not thinking that there's going to be any concerns over possible movement.

OK... I find that there IS a long enough 2x6 available. I need roughly 15' and the local big box store has 16' boards. A full board for replacing the original joist section would be roughly 10'. Replacing it as one whole piece would mean not having to mess with removing that splicing block (under th...

Here a picture that attempts to show the entirety of the rim joist area in question (sorry for the odd angle- I was in a hurry to snap it). RimJoistResized.jpg There are two bad spots combining to about 92". They are separated by 33" of good material. Here is a picture of the REALLY bad spot. It's a...

As I have never done anything like this before I will be asking for guidance. I'll attempt to document things in this thread such that someone else can get a, hopefully, full picture of how to tackle one of these jobs. Background Purchased house about 10 years ago. At that time it had a deck (and st...

Greg, I was going to take another guess but realized that I might once again fail to comprehend what you're suggesting. Any chance you could point me at an example, or perhaps scribble something down and insert here as a picture?

Problem resolved! While cleaning out underneath the home I ran across an extra facia board!

I have [only one instance of] tripled up 2x6 floor joists coming out to my rim joist that I'll need to attach to a new rim joist section: not sure why there are 3; I think that it was from someone else's repair work. Can I just end nail from the new sister rim joist section? If so, what size nails? ...