mobilehomerepair.com

I would guess it is a straight shot from the top of the furnace out of flue to the roof jack? Then maybe I could take a flashlight and look down it as long as there is no bends anywhere in the flue or roof jack.

Thanks.

Yes, if nothing was in way. It is usually a straight shot from furnace upward.


Thanks,
Robert

Hi Robert,

When up there this last weekend to look at the furnace and clean it. Took the burner assembly out and cleaned all of that. The flame got a little more blue to it now but still not good enough. I was wondering if the spud orifice may be too large (replaced incorrectly by someone else?). The furnace model # is 7680B856. I also am losing 120v to the furnace so I would like a new toggle switch as well. Do you have the correct orifice and system switch? 64,000 BTU out furnace 80,000 BTU IN.

Thanks!

Tom,

I've been following this thread for info purposes and noted an earlier post of yours in which you stated that the "furnace" goes off and on with the house at 20 degrees but the "burner" stays on throughout. Did you mean that the blower goes off and on? If your home is 20 degrees and you have a furnace with a fan-limit switch that will cycle the fan by temperature, it (the blower) may go off and on until the house reaches 50 degrees or so.

The fan is what cycles on and off but the burner stays lit. I assume the fan switch gets too cold and shuts the fan down till it can warm the output air more? So, this is normal? I have heard both ways now.

Thanks.

Robert can better tell you if your model furnace has the type of fan-limit switch that would cycle the blower off and on if frigid temperatures exist within the home. That is not to say you don't still have a problem with the burner flame also. Did you check for spider/sac, bugs in the burner and orifice of the gas valve like Robert suggested? I wanted to clarify what was actually cycling off and on. If you do replace the furnace, be aware that it may have the type of switch on it that will cycle the blower if the living space is 20 degrees - as you mentioned it was in an earlier post - in which case that would be normal.

Yeah, I think the flame is still incorrect being it is mostly orange besides the lower part of it. Yes, took the spud out and fully cleaned it with break cleaner and compressed air along with a brush. Cleaned the whole burner assembly like that. You are probably right about the cycling with this furnace or a new one. Will have to see what Robert says after a bit. Still looking for the orifice for LP and system switch though.
Thanks.

Hey Tom,

Be back shortly. Tore some cartilage in my right knee and having surgery tomorrow. Having a severe heart condition can make this dicey so having to get a lot of things taken care of before surgery so they can/will do it.


Thanks,
Robert

Is the toggle on/off switch just a two position with two terminals on back ?


Thanks,
Robert

take your time no rush. yeap,2 spade terminals on the bottom . plastic clips on the side. thanks!

Toggle Switch # 7681 - 3301

LP Orifice # 9951 - 0961


Both can be seen and ordered from here by paging down :

http://www.aberdeenhomerepair.com/store ... gle-switch


Add toggle switch to cart/basket. Then type orifice p/n into search window and add it also.



Thanks,
Robert

Thanks, I will most likely order. Maybe the orifice that is in there is too big creating my orange flame issue>? I could not get a look down the flue last time because the cap was too rusty to take off so I need a new one before I take off the old one. Do they make some kind of clamp on one, the outside pipe is 8" and the inside one is about 5".

Thanks for the links on the parts!

Here is a link to the Coleman chimney cap :

http://www.aberdeenhomerepair.com/store ... -crown-cap



Thanks,
Robert

Thanks. I did purchase the spud, orifice, and switch from you guys. Showed up already, great service!!

You're very welcome, happy to help.


Thanks,
Robert