Building Peaked Roof on Mobile Home

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Posts: 6
Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2008 4:41 pm

Mon Mar 09, 2009 11:59 pm

This is a pretty broad topic I believe and I am really only looking for some guidance on where to start looking or possibly some plans to examine. I would like to build a peaked roof over top of the metal roof on our mobile home ( 52x14 I think ). The current metal roof is one of those rounded ones. Does Mark's book cover this at all? Or is there any website or plans someone can direct me to? Thanks for any info :)

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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

Tue Mar 10, 2009 5:32 pm

Mark does cover reroof in a general manner. You may want to think about a free standing pole barn type roof, that way there is NO added weight to the home. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."

Posts: 6
Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2008 4:41 pm

Wed Mar 11, 2009 3:02 am

Hi Greg. There is no way our park would allow that I believe. Alot of trailers here have been redone with peaked roofs. Not sure if they were reinforced at all for the weight factor. Guess I could ask, lol.

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Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2009 4:59 pm

Wed Mar 11, 2009 7:06 am

if youreplace all your rafters with the same size lumber you wouldnt be addin too much moer legnth so the added weight would be minimal now as far as shingles and sheating that is where you are going to gain all the extra weight if yore home is 2x4 const and you have a double top plate youl be ok if it is a single plate simply add another one to help carry the load. now if you have 2x3 wall const then you might consider reinforcement. also make sure the frame will support the extra wht.
Carpenters Rule!!!!!!

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Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2009 1:43 pm
Location: Saratoga New York

Wed Mar 11, 2009 7:14 am


Not sure what your codes are up there, but you should check with your local building dept. Here in the states HUD code requires
an engineers approval w/stamped plans.

When installing a peak roof on top of a MH all the weight is bearing on the outside walls. The exterior walls have minimal support as they are cantilevered past the I beam about 2'. There are outrigger supports but not enough to cover the extra weight. So what can happen is your outside walls can sag. In the rare case when an engineer gives an approval it usually includes blocking the outside wall. (with footers below frost line)

I have seen some people do this with success and some with problems. Its alot of work and cost to do correctly.

Check out the article Mark has her on the site. I'll also post some pics of an insulated roof install on a domed roof like yours.


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Posts: 606
Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 2:18 pm
Location: Florida Panhandle

Wed Mar 11, 2009 11:52 am

JD has a system of insulated metal roof panels that simply screw overtop of your existing. I'll have to locate the thread.

Here you go...


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Posts: 102
Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2009 1:43 pm
Location: Saratoga New York

Wed Mar 11, 2009 1:46 pm

The kit roofs are nice, especially with the 3" insulation. We've installed many. There are several companies around the country that market these. Sunhaven, Roof King etc. The draw back is price, and unless you live near one of the distributors the shipping can be pricey because of the length of the panels.

The materials for the picture I posted above can be purchased at almost any home improvement center for about 1/2 the cost as the kits. Also available in over a dozen colors.

For people considering a metal roof over there are new federal tax credits now in place. For 2009 & 2010 any "Energy Star" qualified metal roof qualifies for a 30% deduction up to $1500 total credit.

That doesn't help the Krystofurr and the other guys in Canada unless there is a program in place up there too.


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Fri Mar 13, 2009 12:01 pm

Rod after looking at them photos time and time agin' you've got me to pondering...."I could do this!" Lemme explain. I've got an old 12X70 ca. 1970s.w. with a peaked roof. I often wondered..."How could I do this myself (refurbish the roof..) as time, materials, finances and physical strength permits??" I think you've answered it my friend! I noticed you layed down lathing strips lengthwise on the home and layed in stryofoam insulation in between the lath. Then screwed down the new roofing to the lath. Hmmm...? I could do my roof a section at a time rather than attempt to do the entire roof in one weekend. By myself! This might be a lot more cost effective and more energy effficient than wasting money on "roof-coatings"! Now what is the R-value of the 1 1/2in. styrofoam sheets of insulation layed between the lath? This might allay my problem of condensation in my "attic" on frosty mornings!! How much overhang could I allow on the eves without concern about wind ripping up the new sheet metal? I assume self-tapping screws with neoprene seals/ Well my friend..I need to know more. Audie...the Oldfart....

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Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2009 1:43 pm
Location: Saratoga New York

Fri Mar 13, 2009 1:42 pm


No problem doing on a peaked roof. Just run individual panels on each slope and a ridge cap on top. I'll add some pics with a ridge.

That photo the lathe is 5/4 x 3 (True 1") with R-5 We've also done it with 2x4's & 1.5 in foam. If you use blue-board or some of the high end foam board you can increase a couple of points on the r-value.

We have had homeowners tell us with the 1" foam they have used up to 20% less fuel. I would say the average is probably less but everyone states they notice a difference. Use an Energy Star color and save on cooling costs in the summer as well.

We usually do no more than a 3" overhang. Anything more it looks like your roof is wearing a hat.

Here the basics of the install process.

1. Install lathe on entire perimeter of home.

2. Lathe is run perpendicular to the trusses/rafters. Attached with 3" ring shank nails. 2 at each crossing. We use a piece of the foam as a spacer as we go.

3. Install drip edge on entire perimeter lathe. We use wide faced drip edge & install with roofing nails

4. Remove all roof vents, plum boots etc an install lathe under them. Re-install or use new vents & boots.

5. Install your metal panels using color matched screws with neoprene washers. Screwed to the lathe of course. Screws are installed adjacent to the ribs. At the edges we install screws at every rib.

6. To seal cuts around the vents we fill the corrugation with foam closure strips, screw down all around the vents and apply sealant.
The foam reduces the gap to fill & helps to hold the sealant while it cures.

This takes 3 men 1 long day. Some times day and a half.


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Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2009 4:49 pm
Location: California

Tue Apr 07, 2009 4:52 pm

What type of diagram is required to get a permit from the building inspector (Sonoma County, CA) for a metal roof over for a MH? Can these diagrams be purchased?

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Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:28 pm

Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:53 pm

Hey guys

I am interested in doing the same project 12’ 54’ mobile home with a dome roof. I had purchased marks manual however where I am located the hardware store home depot and home hardware and so on do not stock metal roofing and are unable to order. Home depot does have Corrugated roofing made of fibreglass sort of material in many different colours but only comes in a max 12’ sections. I do want a small peek on my roof but they do not have a ridge cap and are unable to order one. Any ideas or suggestions for a ridge cap without ordering online?

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Location: Fresno, CA

Tue Apr 07, 2009 9:37 pm

I wouldn't buy metal panels from the home stores. Metal buildings and wood framed pole barns are sold everywhere. They would have better materials, all the accessories you would need and probably better service for this material. Depending on who you talk to, you could be tapping into a wealth of information. JMO

Also, in the future it would be better to start a new post with your question. Questions can get lost when added to someone else's post. Please start a new post to continue your discussion.

Thank you,
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.

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