Sheetrocking a mobile home

Jeneen · Wed Dec 31, 2008 7:46 pm

Hi everyone, I am a newbie and I have a question. I have a 1996 double wide. What I want to do is Sheetrock the inside walls with Sheetrock once we get it moved and placed on a foundation. Is this possible, my husband concern is the molding around the doors on the inside....etc. Any suggestions? Or can this be done at all?

Harry · Wed Dec 31, 2008 9:12 pm

Hi

It is time consuming but it can be done.

The difficulty with my '88 DW is:
1. The wall panels are cemented to the studs.
2. My wall panels are 5/16s and sheetrock comes in 3/8s or 1/2 inch
which means all my window and door molding would have to be redone.

I'd say it is a major project.

Harry

Greg · Wed Dec 31, 2008 10:56 pm

Hi & welcome, I have always maintained that anything is possible with enough planning & $$$. As Harry said many of us have done it and it will take some "Adjustments" to the door & window frames, other than that it is just basic sheetrock work. Greg

Jeneen · Thu Jan 01, 2009 2:06 am

Ok this was my husbands concern....
1. would there be something to attach to...Solid studs?
2. how would one Do the windows and the doors?
I read that MH doors and trim (inside and out) are different dimensions than those in a stick home. Is there any co. (after reading some of the posts I do not have much confidence in "Lowes or HomeDepo".
Once again any ideas is much appreciated.

BTW...I had a neighbor who converted his single wide into a stick home....Wonder if I can some how do that with my DW, just food for thought I guess.

Happy New year everyone

Harry · Thu Jan 01, 2009 6:29 am

Hi

What manufacturer is you home?

You will probably find 2x wood studs on 16" centers. The wall panels you have now may be cemented to the studs with construction adhesive. This construction adhesive will have to be removed with a hammer and chisel/scrapper. It is rock hard.

TIP Remove the first panel very carefully in case you decide to backout of the project and want to reattach the panel.

Harry

phurst · Thu Jan 01, 2009 9:10 am

As far as the door question goes I just replaced my back door which was one of those typical MH doors (odd size). I had a 36" X 80" opening but the only problem is that they don't make a prefab door for that size opening at any of the bIg Box stores. I got a quote from HD and they wanted $600 for a special order door. So what I decided to do was to reduce the opening and go with a 33" prefab. I had to add a 2x6 to the hinge side and cut 1.5" off the btm and it works and looks awesome and the best part is that I did it for about $175. There is an article on how to cut down doors in the article section on this site that was VERY helpful. Hope that helps you!!

Jeneen · Thu Jan 01, 2009 11:56 am

You are all wonderful!!! Gives us a little to think about......I will have to double check who the manufactors is for you, I am not real sure. My mom let me purchase it from here for 10,000, I didn't think it was to bad its in good shape. Wish it had more insulation tho....lol

Greg · Thu Jan 01, 2009 12:13 pm

since your's is a newer home, the interior wall studs should be at least a 2x3 if not 2x4 And the outside walls 2x6 if not 2x8.

Doors, Many manufacturers use paneling strips to cover the door jam faces, this is the one area that could take some creatitivity. you could used different paneling, or as long as the studs are exposed, change the frames to stick built type. many windows are the same way. If you have the basic "trailer" windows with the two seperate windows one inside & one outside. Greg

Brenda (OH) · Thu Jan 01, 2009 1:35 pm

just a thought...

does the sheetrock solution come from the problem of the home is too cold? if the walls are the 2x6 dimensions and decently filled with insulation, would double pane insulated windows be the better upgrade, give more warmth to the home for the $$$$ that will need to be spent?

sounds like the first wall you open up could reveal a lot of info on what is needed....

Brenda (OH)

Dean2 · Thu Jan 01, 2009 5:35 pm

If the sheetrock or any type of replaced interior panel is thicker than the original,one common solution if not replacing jambs is,,extension jambs.They can be cut,sanded and painted or stained before installation,then touched-up afterwards. If the differance is only 1/8" or so the casing trim can also have the backside milled a bit,depending on the casing type of course.

Check the difference in thicknesses and discuss it with an experienced trim guy.

I've seen Finish Carpenters take a hammer and mush the edge of sheetrock around doors/windows just enough so the casing lays on the jamb with the proper reveal,but,not mushed so far that it shows past the casing out in the wall area,I've done it Myself back when I did gen carpentry.

Jeneen · Thu Jan 01, 2009 5:59 pm

I don't know if this will help its a Victoris Double wide?

Dean2 · Fri Jan 02, 2009 12:27 am

Would that be a Palm Harbor home built in Victoria? That's the closest match I could find on the net.

Might not matter tho,the difference in thickness of the existing sheeting to the planned new sheeting is what matters to the trim/moulding working to lay on the jamb or not,wich was,I think,the original question.

laurig99 · Wed Jan 07, 2009 7:34 am

I have sheetrocked two entire mobile homes in the last 4 years. The first was a 92 Redman that was involved in a flood in 05. Gutted the entire house except for furnace and shower/tub install. Replaced all the insulation, wiring, and plumbing. Sheetrocked the entire house and installed a new subfloor with laminate over the top. Installed all new base and wall cabinets in the kitchen, new appliances, and new toilet. Everything in the house was completely new including the insulation and belly skirt underneath. Of course, we lost the house a year later in a second flood.

We purchased the one that we are in now, a 93 Titan for 10,000. It had been trashed by the family that lived here. So far, we have replaced all the base and wall cabinets in the kitchen, countertops and sink, installed new appliances, laminate flooring in kitchen and living room, new floor tile in second bathroom, new cabinet and sink in second bathroom, completely remodeled one bedroom for our son which included: sheetrock, insulation, flooring, paint, and wiring upgrade, and have wallpapered master bedroom. As you can see by my post, we have extensive experience in remodeling/rebuilding mobile homes. If your house is on a foundation as you say, there should be no problem with installing sheetrock. Just remember to tape the joints to prevent cracking. As for moulding, standard moulding from Lowes or Home Depot will work fine.

Harry · Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:02 am

Hi laurig99

What thickness sheetrock did you use?

Did you have to scrape cement off of the studs?

Thanks

Harry

laurig99 · Wed Jan 07, 2009 11:10 am

We used 1/2 in drywall in our son's room. There was no cement on the studs, only a TON of staples

The previous covering was just that, thin wall board. Same with the flooring. We pulled probably a million staples from the floor after ripping up the carpet. I had blisters from the pliers until I realized that vice grips worked better.

We replace the carpet in our son's room with a type of foam mats that interlock like jigsaw puzzles. Comes in all colors and is a great insulator as well. Not to mention being easy to clean.

Here's a link to where we purchased the flooring from. Highly recommended for kids. Easy to install, no glue required. http://www.wondermat.com/