Window Quote from window dealer/installer. $12000

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
For mobile home parts, click here.

Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD

Locked
radoo99
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 7:25 pm

Wed Oct 22, 2008 9:56 am

Recently had a window dealer/installer come out to my MH and give me a quote on replacing windows. He said that it would cost around 12,000 dollars!!! so around $1000 each window. He said the reason was they would have to do alot of trim work inside because the windows would stick out a inch or so once installed. this is my second quote from a dealer and both were about the same. So my question is what type of window fits a mobile home without trim work inside? i I have windows now that have screws all around them and also on the outside they have screws around them so they are easy to take out. I can post a picture if anyone needs it. Thanks


User avatar
Mark
Site Admin
Posts: 740
Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 4:23 pm
Location: Aberdeen, SD
Contact:

Wed Oct 22, 2008 1:50 pm

Your window installer must be selling windows with jams. Most people order replacement mobile home windows WITHOUT jams. Then there's very little trimwork that needs to be done inside.

My company could sell and ship you windows and be under $300 each (way under on smaller windows). Just e-mail me rough opening sizes if interested. Not too hard to put the windows in yourself if that's something your able to do.

Thanks,
Mark
[email protected]
You can't fail if you don't try!

User avatar
Greg
Moderator
Posts: 5378
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY
Contact:

Wed Oct 22, 2008 6:51 pm

When I replaced our windows with Pellas, it averaged a little under $200 ea. It is not a hard job, with basic carpentry skills you could do the job with no problem. The first one will take you the longest then they go quicker with every one that you do.
The only thing that might throw a wrench into the gears would be if your outside walls are super thin like 2x2, but you would just have to get a little creative on the inside trim work. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."

User avatar
JD
Site Admin
Posts: 2686
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:57 pm
Location: Fresno, CA
Contact:

Thu Oct 23, 2008 12:47 am

That sounds very high to me and I install windows often. The windows should not be that difficult to trim. I have installed 3-1/4" depth (standard) retrofit windows into walls made of 2x3s. I just filled the rough opening gap with a little insulating foam and trimmed the box with batten molding. White screen frame molding would also look very nice. Many of the window jobs I do need to have all the paneling on the sills and jambs replaced due to rot. Not a big deal. If the window sits inside the window opening at all, you can use regular vinyl window trim which is a peel-n-stick that sells for about $10 a 12' piece.

I installed expensive Milgard SunCoat Max windows in the home below for less than your quote. There were 23 windows and one had to be hand glazed! I'd love to do that job again.

Image

JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.

Macattac

Thu Oct 23, 2008 3:19 pm

This subject causes much confusion due to the unusual opening sizes and the issue of wall thickness. All that is needed for the perfect fit is a new construction vinyl window (nailing fin) from a manufacturer willing to make custom sizes.

The only trick is to know how much window frame remains behind the location of the nailfin. In the case of a 2 7/8" overall jamb - the nail fin is about 1" back from the face leaving 2" or less going into the wall. This eliminates the issues that come about from using a traditional replacement frame (3 1/4"), needing to be trimmed out and possibility of water infiltration due to a non-fin window.

My company (no, i'm not advertising here) developed a program stocking common mobile home opening sizes to address this problem. A huge upgrade over what people have, with insulated glass and in many cases easier to put in than "replacements". The pricing is more like what Mark said above, resulting in us shipping these all over the country for far less money than dealers charge for cash and carry mobile home windows.


chablis
Posts: 33
Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2008 2:35 pm
Location: New York State

Sat Oct 25, 2008 7:05 am

I've been in the market to replace four double hung windows for a couple of years now. One of the estimates I got was from Sears. The windows were top-of-the-line, argon-filled low E glass with just about every bell and whistle you could think of. Price without installation was $900 per window ( x 4 = $3600.) I didn't even bother getting a quote for the installation.

At that kind of price, those windows had better wash themselves--LOL!

I'm not sure who you had to give you an estimate, but there are plenty of places that are much less expensive, with equally good windows.
Chablis

User avatar
Greg
Moderator
Posts: 5378
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY
Contact:

Sat Oct 25, 2008 9:23 am

For $900 each, they better put themselves in!!! Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."

Brenda OH reregister
Posts: 45
Joined: Fri Aug 08, 2008 6:47 pm

Sat Oct 25, 2008 2:39 pm

I had a window literally fall apart in my hand that I was just trying to remove old outside trim from with a utility knife. I pulled on the trim, and parts of the window detached from the wall and also pulled out.

I had to use a new construction house window from Home Depot. (had to get a window back into the space by nightfall so I could go home! lol) I replaced a 20 inch 8 sided window with a 24 inch square new construction window.

I laid the window on the carpet, and and assembled 2 by 4s into what would be the new window frame by carefully screwing it together onto the window, and then slid it back off of the window.

I then did this:

1. went to the old window opening, and found what joists and headers were there that I would have to attach the assembled framing to.

2. Marked the shape on the siding and cut the siding.

3. removed some drywalling inside to be able to fit the frame into the wall.

4. removed the current header and bottom sill (they were rotted)

5. attached my new frame to the joists, in my case I had to do this from inside the home, since I had made it a tight fit on the siding cut.

6. Installed the window into the new frame, which was very square and a nice tight fit since the frame had been fitted exactly to the window shape and already screwed together into a solid shape.

6. had used putty tape on window, just filled in gaps and caulked.

7. IMPORTANT FINAL STEP I installed a door water diverter at the top of the window frame because the window sticks out about 1 to 2 inches from the side of the home, and water was going to lay in the top of the window. the diverter totally kept water from gathering there the last time it rained.


I would rather have used a mobile home window, I like that those windows are flush to the wall, but this was the emergencey short on time answer. it cost twice as much, but that sometimes happens.

I used frosted contact paper on this window because it is a bedroom window that overlooks the deck. will see over time if it stays in place with temperature changes.

Brenda (OH)

Locked