E1EH-012HA Sequencer question

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E1EH-012HA Sequencer question

Postby rbushey » Wed Mar 12, 2008 4:47 pm

Hello,

First post. Forgive me if the answer is elsewhere on the forum. Looked and couldn't find.

I have a Nordyne E1EH-012HA furnace in my mobile home. It's shut off on me in the middle of the night several times. I've reset the thermostat (cycling it off then on) and sometimes that revives it. Other times I have to cycle the main breaker and it will come back to life. It has done this a couple times about a year ago, then it worked for a long time, then again recently. Of course in the coldest weather!

I've been told, and from what I read, that it's the sequencer.

I had a guy from my church who works for an AC company order one. They said that it cross referenced, but not sure... The only difference, was the numbers and that the M1-M2, M3-M4 were on oposite sides than my original one (same rows and same pairs, but flip flopped. Also, the cutoff time was 110 and mine was 70, but I don't think that should have mattered.

The new one didn't work when we initially hooked it up. Nothing. He ran an ohms test on the low voltage leads closest the mount and he got an open circuit instead of resistance. We took the sequencer off the cabinet where it was mounted and just left it hang and it worked fine. We mounted it back to the cabinet and it didn't work again. I put my old one back in and it worked just fine...(for now).

I suppose he could have made an error when he did the ohms test the first time....but we don't think so. With it out of the unit and all wires off, the ohms read in the 60's or 70's, similar to my original one.
1) Does it matter if the M1-M2 are switched around. Isn't it just a straight through switch?

He has another on order, I think the one that you suggested to another forum reader for this model, but when I looked at it, it had much closer numbers (timings and part number) but the M1-M2 were flip flopped on this too. We don't really have enough wire to hook up, lets say the one heating element lead that went to M1 on the left to M1 which is now on the right, unless we mount the sequencer upside down. This has really baffled us. Any ideas?


Original sequencer info: 15S2 6215960 H1-20 C40-70 309811

New sequencer info: 15SH2 309573 H1-20 C40-110
rbushey
 

RE: E1EH-012HA Sequencer question

Postby Robert » Thu Mar 13, 2008 2:36 am

Hi,

First thing to do would be get correct sequencer which can be seen in left side column here:

http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/NordyneElec.html


Sequencer # 621696 Click on pic for enlarged view .


You can mount it any way you wish, so long as it is secure and wires are connected to correct terminal.


When you say shut off, are you saying the elements do not energize and blower does not run ?


Thanks,
Robert
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RE: E1EH-012HA Sequencer question

Postby rbushey » Thu Mar 13, 2008 6:18 pm

The furnace would always (to my knowledge) finish a cycle, but on the next call for heat, it would not cycle on (blower and element). At least I don't think the element would come on without the blower. I have no way of knowing.

I did have my friend order a new sequencer, and I think he got the one you suggested...that's what I told him to get anyway. We'll see when it comes.


When you said "so long as it is secure and wires are connected to correct terminal", what is "the correct terminals"?

I guess that was really one of my original questions.

I worked several years for an elecrician, so I know that usually you connect to the correct labeled terminal, regardless of it's orientation on the switch. My confusion is that I was told that it didn't matter in this situation.

Does the original M1 wire have to go on the M1 terminal and the M2 wire go on the M2 terminal, or can The M1 go on M2 and M2 on M1? Does it matter? The old and new sequencers look identical, except the M1-M2 pair is switched and so is the M3-M4 pair. If my new one comes switched...do I 1)hook it back up with the same "physical" orientation (regardless of the M1...markings), or do I need to connect the wires to the same labeled markings (regardless of physical orientation on the sequencer)?


Thanks so much for your help!

Richard
rbushey
 

Postby rbushey » Thu Mar 13, 2008 6:20 pm

Humbly Grateful!
rbushey
 

RE: E1EH-012HA Sequencer question

Postby Robert » Thu Mar 13, 2008 7:07 pm

Hi Richard,

If he ordered the sequencer I suggested, then it is correct one from manufacturer.

M1 wire can go on M2 and M2 wire can go on M1 .

However, it is best to keep as designed to stop confusion when looking wiring diagram in future.

IF wiring is too short, you can buy wiring and high heat terminals. It will make life easier in future if repairs are needed.


We have the wire and high heat terminals if needed.



Thanks,
Robert
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RE: E1EH-012HA Sequencer question

Postby rbushey » Thu Mar 13, 2008 9:56 pm

Thanks soooo much for your help.

Do you have a link to the wire and terminals? Several of them will reach, but I know at least one won't.

Richard
rbushey
 

RE: E1EH-012HA Sequencer question

Postby Robert » Fri Mar 14, 2008 1:15 am

Hi Richard,

You're very welcome, happy to help.

Here ya go:

http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/FurnaceElec.html

I would use the 10 Gauge Wire there.


Go here to see correct sequencer:

http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/NordyneElec.html


Sequencer # 621696 in left column. Click on pic for enlarged view.



Thanks,
Robert
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RE: E1EH-012HA Sequencer question

Postby rbushey » Sun Mar 16, 2008 2:22 pm

Robert,

Thanks for the info.

I just got the seqencer last night and he did what I asked him not to do....he ordered the same one he had before, not the one I said you suggested.

It is a 15SH2 #309573

H1-20 C40-110

Will this sequencer work or not? If not, is there a reason (how it's built inside) that doesn't allow it to work. He is convinced that this one will also work. I just wanted to have an answer for him if it doesn't. You understand! : )

Also, I hate to go through the hassle of sending it back again if I don't have to.

Richard
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RE: E1EH-012HA Sequencer question

Postby Robert » Sun Mar 16, 2008 3:55 pm

Hi Richard,

I won't say it will or will not work, but will say this. There are always parts that will work, but not to design specs of furnace.


C40-70 = cut off in 40 - 70 seconds.


C40-110 = cut off in 40 - 110 seconds.


Therefore, it can run an extra 40 seconds and this will change temps inside furnace.


The limits are matched to the timing sequences of designed components and changes can sometimes interfere with that.


My problem with it is this. He "could" have easily got the right part the first time and easier then on 2nd attempt.


IF it is installed and does not work or works, but later starts having problems, it cannot be returned then.


It is always recommended to always replace sequencers with like parts or if different, only after manufacturer recommends another part as the replacement.


Just my take, he has his way and I have mine and you unfortunately are caught in the middle choosing.



Because I'm not there and the fact that the exact part could have been ordered, but wasn't, best answer I can give.


Sometimes they fall within range and all is well, but not always.

If it cross-referenced, should be ok, but again, I'm not there and didn't order it or check cross-reference.


Please let me know how it goes.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert
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Postby rbushey » Sun Mar 16, 2008 10:08 pm

I'm full of questions...thanks for your time. Hopefully this is the last! ; )

Regarding the cutoff time. The way I understand it is that it woud take from 40-110 seconds AFTER the thermostat releases the call for heat (opens the circuit) for the furnace to eventually shut off. Right? Is that all it does? If so, then staying on a bit longer couldn't hurt, could it, other than warming the house a wee bit more? OR is there more to it that I don't know? Does it maybe change the time the heating elements are on in relationship to the blower? In that case, that could be a problem.

I don't mind trying it, but I don't want to compromise my heating elements or worse.

My gut says to order the right one and sell this one back to the guy....easier said than done! We're good friends! Nothing like a little piece of plastic and metal to try to come between friends! It won't...but boy it's a ticklish situation! Isn't life fun! : )

Thanks for your input. You've been most helpful.
rbushey
 

RE: E1EH-012HA Sequencer question

Postby Robert » Sun Mar 16, 2008 11:12 pm

Hi Richard,

Ole satan always stirring up trouble ain't he ? Look at it this way, the furnace is designed to reach certain temps, any changes will alter that.

Staying on longer can overshoot the set temp at t-stat.

May not hurt anything and may even fall within same timings as other, the 40-110 means it can take that long, but may not.


No way to know without trying, BUT if it fails to work correctly, who will have to eat the cost ?

It has a variable cut-off time, so may be ok and may not.


If it hasn't been installed, he can get money back minus shipping, he did order wrong part .


It may cross-reference, but why do that when original is available ?



As stated earlier, it is a personal decision and could go either way.


Will just depend on how long it runs extra.



Thanks,
Robert
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RE: E1EH-012HA Sequencer question

Postby rbushey » Wed Mar 19, 2008 10:14 pm

Robert,

I got my part installed and it ran beautifully. I timed the old one before taking it out and I didn't realize how long after the "no-call" for heat that it was running. Try 2:37 and the cutoff was supposed to be 70 sec. Yikes!

The new one, the cutoff time is marked up to 110. It only took 12 seconds to turn on after the call for heat and 54 sec. to shut down after the "no-call". That seemed reasonable to me.

Thanks for your help.

God bless!

Richard W. Bushey
rbushey
 

RE: E1EH-012HA Sequencer question

Postby Robert » Thu Mar 20, 2008 4:36 am

Hi Richard,

That's great, like I said, sometimes it can work fine, glad it did this time.


You're very welcome, happy to help.


Take care and God Bless,
Robert
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