Releveling questions

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bomberman
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Aug 18, 2015 4:37 pm

I'm a first time home owner and the extent of my construction knowledge is to call my landlord and tell him what's broken :D . I am legitimately trying to learn things but I work 60 hours a week and am reading what I can when I can.

I hired a guy to relevel my single wide and put up new skirting and I feel like he's getting a little shady and I don't know how to respond to things he says to me. I think he's picked up on the fact that I have no idea what he's talking about and thinking he can get over on me and avoid doing the work I payed him for. Or maybe I'm just a paranoid idiot :lol:

On the work order we signed he says he's going to "install new block and/or pavers metal and P.T. shims". He didn't show up for 2 weeks saying the skirting materials were delayed and he finally showed up the other day for about an hour to work on the leveling. Afterwards he told me how the house is now level. I asked him if he's going replace the shims when he comes back and he reluctantly said yeah when he comes back to do the skirting, but I feel like he's trying to do as little work as possible and is probably going to try and weasel out of replacing the shims.

Currently (after he did the hour of work) there are stacks of concrete blocks with old shims and 5-6 are split and in a V-shape. I went under the house and all around and don't even see what work he did. He jacked the house up 3 maybe 4 times. I don't know why he would be telling me the house is level if he intends to replace the shims. Does that make any sense? I am totally clueless but I am assuming the shims should not be split like that (sticking up on both sides in a V shape). Other ones are very old looking and still have cobwebs on them so clearly he didn't touch them at all.

My main question is whether it's bad for the wood to be split like that and if that's something I need to demand he replace with new wood? There is also a brick instead of wood on top of one of the concrete stacks, i'm not sure if it was already there or this guy put it there. My living room is now more sloped than before he touched anything and the floor has begun creeking when I walk across it. He was trying to tell me it's because the wall is bad and because it's a foot or 2 from where the concrete blocks are stacked so it is sloping on the side. Does that make any sense or is he just telling me a bunch of nonsense?

My other question is what I can do to personally check his work? Can I use a spirit level and where should I use it? This guy was putting it on the outside of the house where the 2 beams meet and telling me "see it's level" and I have no idea if that's even the correct way to check.

Am I crazy that I assumed he was going to jack up the house by every concrete stack and replace the old wood with new stuff? Is that way more work than I should have expected for $600?

Thanks for any help of advice any of you can offer. Sorry for my terrible grammar and run on sentences and general lack of any knowledge whatsoever about anything :lol:
steelworkersgal
Posts: 94
Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2009 1:30 pm
Location: Central Illinois

Hi Bomberman, I would say yes those damaged wedges need to be replaced with new. When we had our home leveled i was able to watch them. It took them a while to make sure everything was leveled and they used a water level. A metal level will not give you a true reading. Under my home they put a large flat 24x24 patio block then a cider block to where the blocks are hole side up then they put another patio block to cover the holes of the cider blocks then the wedges to adjust the level. I'm sure some of the others that are long time mobile home owners will chime in to help you with your questions. This is a great sight with a lot of knowledge and good people.
You can do anything if you put your mind to
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Greg
Moderator
Posts: 5696
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

The only accurate way to level a home is with a water level. If you check it with a bubble type, you cab see that you can get an 1/8" off and still show "Level". Run that 1/8" over a 60' span and see if it is still "Level".
You should only use hardwood shims, pine will crush under the weight of the home.
You sound like you could use a copy of Mark's (site owner) book, it will give you lots of information on your home. It's in the "Books & parts" section of the site.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
bomberman
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Aug 18, 2015 4:37 pm

Thank you steelworkersgal and Greg. That book sounds like just what I need I'll definitely purchase a copy. Interesting to know about the water level. From your comments I'm thinking this guy I hired is either lazy, dishonest or incompetent. Any ideas how much I should be paying for leveling and how much work I should expect for my money?
steelworkersgal
Posts: 94
Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2009 1:30 pm
Location: Central Illinois

My cost in 2006 was 350.00 have no idea what it would run today
You can do anything if you put your mind to
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Greg
Moderator
Posts: 5696
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

I can't say why a water level was not used. It does take a little longer to set up, but it is 100% accurate. You may want to make a few phone calls to dealers or mobile transport/set up companies to get a better idea on price.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
Mark440
Posts: 279
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 8:33 am
Location: Anna, Tx

steelworkersgal wrote:My cost in 2006 was 350.00 have no idea what it would run today
I'm in north Texas with a 28 x 44 dblwide. I was phone quoted $1700 - just to start. I don't know if that is a competitive rate - but I will be doing it myself....
Opportunity has a shelf life.
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