OK I just had my pessure tank replaced on a mobile home I have
its located under the trailer, about 20 ft from the end of the trailer
I have full skirting about the home, and there is a added on porch that extends out about 10 ft with a full skirting as well, so privides extra wind protection to the tank
MY question is, what is the best way to insulate the water pressure tank to keep from freezing in the winter time??
as I know these tanks sweat from the colder water(well water)
MY old tank, was wrapped with standard house insulation, and due to that it was alway wet and caused the tank to rust out(did last 15 + yrs) was wrapped by previous owner and I just left it be
BUT now with the enw tank installed
looking for best way to insulatte it
as temps here drop wel below -15 degree at times
and want to prevent freezing pipes best I can
any suggestions??
was thinking about the efelective heating type instlation, but still don't know if trapping water between the tankl and it is a good idea??
Thanks, look forward to suggestions
pressure tank question
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
I think I would frame it in with a small enclosure and use foam sheet insulation. Moisture should not effect it and you would have an air gap between the foam & tank. you could also use heat tape around the tank just foe extra insurance and turn it on in extreme cold.
Greg
Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
thanks
its in a tight area, so framing it in would be tricky, and then there are water pipes above it and to the side, and then where its fed too
further making it tricky to frame in
I am thinking about using the foil type heat insulation, and getting a bunch of the foam pipe insulation piece's and using them to form a gap between the tank and the insulation, they way theer will be a bunch of air between the heat insualation and the tank, so when it sweats it can drip down and dry as allowed
and use heat tape to make a good tight seal about it
and then wrap that all with good house insulation
I thnk that would do it
I would like to use heat wire, But to be honest I am some what scared of if
as this tank is a hard place to get into and doesn't have any power outlets near by
and don't want to be craweling under it off and on to check on it, all the more so if I wrap it up like I am thinking
plus I would have to run an extention cord to it some how, as I have NO outside outlets, and access to it is from outside only!
so that runs into problems with how to power the heat tape to!
and in winter time I know field mice live under this trailer
so would worry again about on chewing on a heat wire I guess
But do you think my idea would be OK??
thanks again
its in a tight area, so framing it in would be tricky, and then there are water pipes above it and to the side, and then where its fed too
further making it tricky to frame in
I am thinking about using the foil type heat insulation, and getting a bunch of the foam pipe insulation piece's and using them to form a gap between the tank and the insulation, they way theer will be a bunch of air between the heat insualation and the tank, so when it sweats it can drip down and dry as allowed
and use heat tape to make a good tight seal about it
and then wrap that all with good house insulation
I thnk that would do it
I would like to use heat wire, But to be honest I am some what scared of if
as this tank is a hard place to get into and doesn't have any power outlets near by
and don't want to be craweling under it off and on to check on it, all the more so if I wrap it up like I am thinking
plus I would have to run an extention cord to it some how, as I have NO outside outlets, and access to it is from outside only!
so that runs into problems with how to power the heat tape to!
and in winter time I know field mice live under this trailer
so would worry again about on chewing on a heat wire I guess
But do you think my idea would be OK??
thanks again
Condensation occurs when moisture in the air meets up with a cold surface.
That's what a moisture barrier is for. After you wrap it with insulation, enclose the whole thing (insulation and all) in plastic and make sure it's sealed so that moist air can't get in.
The "sweat" doesn't come from within the pipes/tank.
That's what a moisture barrier is for. After you wrap it with insulation, enclose the whole thing (insulation and all) in plastic and make sure it's sealed so that moist air can't get in.
The "sweat" doesn't come from within the pipes/tank.
Don I
Holts Summit, MO
(Central MO)
Holts Summit, MO
(Central MO)
One more thing regarding the heat tape issue. Go ahead and put the outlet down there. Use a GFCI outlet inside the house as its power source. Plug in a nite lite at that GFCI.
If an issue at the outlet causes the GFCI to trip, the nite lite will go off. That's your signal that there is an issue.
If an issue at the outlet causes the GFCI to trip, the nite lite will go off. That's your signal that there is an issue.
Don I
Holts Summit, MO
(Central MO)
Holts Summit, MO
(Central MO)
I just had another thought to offer. I'm assuming the pipes in question eventually pass through the belly wrap into the house. So take some flexible drain pipe, slit it lengthwise, and put the water pipe inside this drain pipe. Make sure the drain pipe passes through the belly wrap and insulation too (the end of the drain pipe will be above the insulation) .
Wrap the drain pipe in insulation and then seal it in moisture barrier. Now the water pipe is getting heat jus like the water lines that are above the floor insulation.
Then you can do as Greg suggested and enclose the tank - - maybe even use the drain pipe to get heat inside the enclosure for the tank.
Wrap the drain pipe in insulation and then seal it in moisture barrier. Now the water pipe is getting heat jus like the water lines that are above the floor insulation.
Then you can do as Greg suggested and enclose the tank - - maybe even use the drain pipe to get heat inside the enclosure for the tank.
Don I
Holts Summit, MO
(Central MO)
Holts Summit, MO
(Central MO)
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