Re level, Piers, Levy?

[Lifted79chevy350]

Ok so this summer I plan to have my trailer re leveled and updated to code. On the paremiter I dont have double stacked blocks we just have single stacked.... Scary lol. The trailer has been her for awhile so the ground under my trailer isnt peaked. So water tends to run under the house. My piers are kinda sunk from sitting for so long. What will they do to fix the sinking piers? And to prevent water from getting under my trailer any suggestions. One of my neighbors suggested building a mini levi behind the skirting. I drew up what he suggested sorry about the quality.

[JD]

I would think it would be better to route the water away from the home with burms and/or french drains. If water actually collects under your home, I would think that water would still find a way in. Let us know what your contractor comes up with, OK? One thought would be to use ABS pads instead of the treated wood pads under the concrete piers. If wood pads are sunk in wet mud, they will still rot even though they are treated.

[Greg]

Depending on how your lot is laid out you could use 4" perforated drainage tube around the outside of the skirting and pitch it away from the home.

Greg

[Lifted79chevy350]

well let me re phrase what I said the water is not draining all the way under the trailer. just around the parameter. The red in the picture would be a berm of soil overlayed with some visqueen plastic the soil over top up to the point of the skirting. I also dont have gutters on my house. As for the pads it honestly looks like they used wood from a pallet. Then again i dont know how long this house has been sitting here. I do not know if abs is acceptable here ill do some research. I know the new trailers they move in here they use wood.

[Greg]

Wood surprises me, Here everything is concrete with hardwood shims. You may want to consider adding gutters.

Greg

[Greg S]

I agree with Greg. Add gutters and install the drainage line in a gravel filled trench extending out about 12" wide along the perimeter of the skirting. Anything else is only a band aid solution. Forget the berm as it does not resolve the problem it simply accommodates it.

[Lifted79chevy350]

Yeah the put wood down then cinder blocks and hard wood shims. And Greg I have been thinking about putting gutters in for awhile.

[Lifted79chevy350]

I asked the trailer park and they said no diggin into the ground I have to do everything above ground.

[1987Commodore]

OK, first, get rid of any wood touching the ground under your piers. Since you need to get more blocks to rebuild the piers correctly, order the appropriate number of concrete cap blocks needed for a base.
You will have two cap blocks to form the base of each pier, with a double stack of blocks on those. Then two cap blocks on top of the stack, with any necessary hardwood shims for leveling on top of the cap blocks.
Next question - do you have a plastic vapor barrier on the ground under the home? If not, I'd install one, and overlap the sheets 6" at any seams. Run the edges 6" or so up the back side of the skirting, so water will go under the plastic.

[Greg]

Rather than wood, I think I would form up some 24x24x4 concrete pads and use them as a base to put the blocks on. They may not be ideal but they should last longer than wood.

Greg

[Lifted79chevy350]

Awesome info guys thanks for the advice. Ok next ? How will the indentations in the ground be fixed when setting new blocks on the old spots. Or will they be ok just setting on top. I would say the deepest one is about 2 inches into the ground.

[1987Commodore]

Since the ground in those spots is already compacted, I would just dig out sufficient area around the indentations to the same depth to make room for your new larger piers. It wont matter if the base is below ground level if you use a concrete base for the new piers.

[Lifted79chevy350]

Thank you Commodore. Any Ideas on the cost to re level if i buy the blocks? I was going to do it myself along time ago but Im to scared to try it.

[Greg]

It's not a hard job to do. I would plan on a day to do the job.

Take a notebook and plot you piers on it then use a water level and take your readings. I start in the middle ( as "0") and work out to the ends, once you get the readings +/- on each pier I use soap stone and write the reading on the frame also.

Once you get your readings you can place the piers and raise or lower to make it level.

Greg

[1987Commodore]

I've heard of people being charged $7-800. for a re level. I haven't priced blocks in a long time.
Here's a good reference book you can download from this site that explains a lot.
http://www.aberdeenhomerepair.com/store ... p?pid=3277