raise a 60 footer one ft.
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
20 ton jack, jack pads, blocks, water level and hard work.
You can have it fast or you can have it right but not both.
Actually that is not true, the fastest way to have it done right is to pay a professional to do it for you.
You can have it fast or you can have it right but not both.
Actually that is not true, the fastest way to have it done right is to pay a professional to do it for you.
An individual must enforce his own meaning in life and rise above the perceived conformity of the masses. (Anton LaVey)
I really don't know what a professional is other than a person who has some sort of cheap degree and charges 50 bucks more an hour than I do, or it could be just someone off the street who is working for a company that has one person with a degree or license and everyone is working under that persons degree or license. I've read on here many times where people ask a question are told to hire a professional and have to laugh. If they wanted to hire someone, they wouldn't be on the net asking someones advice.
I repaired oil burners,done plumbing and wired houses for many yrs with no license or degree, the company whom I worked for had a license, but they were never with me when I done the work,all work was inspected and passed. . I've been building, leveling, using jacks, making all kinds of repairs for the past 50 plus yrs,but never on a MH. I was just wondering if anyone had an Idea of ther best way to approach the job on a MH.how many jacks ect. Yrs ago, I even jacked up my stick built house and put a basemant under it.
I repaired oil burners,done plumbing and wired houses for many yrs with no license or degree, the company whom I worked for had a license, but they were never with me when I done the work,all work was inspected and passed. . I've been building, leveling, using jacks, making all kinds of repairs for the past 50 plus yrs,but never on a MH. I was just wondering if anyone had an Idea of ther best way to approach the job on a MH.how many jacks ect. Yrs ago, I even jacked up my stick built house and put a basemant under it.
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ponch37300
- Posts: 622
- Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:12 pm
- Location: wisconsin
I'm going to be re leveling mine in the next couple weeks, if we ever get rid of this 90-100 degree heat!
If I was raising the whole thing up a foot I would get at least 4 if not 6 bottle jacks. Probably 6 and put on in each corner and two in the middle. Then raise up a few strokes on all jacks and install cribbing as you go so if one were to fail it would drop the whole house. Or you could just buy one or two jacks and move them around raising a little at a time, but I think that would take a long time to raise the whole thing a foot. Harborfreight has 20ton bottle jacks for 40 bucks a piece so for 240 bucks you can get six of them and make your day a lot easier. I'm sure you could sell them after done, of even if your careful they might even let you return them if you don't mess them up at all.
Like mentioned a water level is the best way to level it, I found this out. Use a jacking plate between the jack and frame to spread the pressure so that you don't bend the frame from the pressure of the jack. I will be using a piece of 1/4" angle iron to do this.
Read up on how to support your house at whatever height it will end up being, how to build the proper support piers. I've never seen a MH fall off the piers but my guess is it isn't pretty!
If I was raising the whole thing up a foot I would get at least 4 if not 6 bottle jacks. Probably 6 and put on in each corner and two in the middle. Then raise up a few strokes on all jacks and install cribbing as you go so if one were to fail it would drop the whole house. Or you could just buy one or two jacks and move them around raising a little at a time, but I think that would take a long time to raise the whole thing a foot. Harborfreight has 20ton bottle jacks for 40 bucks a piece so for 240 bucks you can get six of them and make your day a lot easier. I'm sure you could sell them after done, of even if your careful they might even let you return them if you don't mess them up at all.
Like mentioned a water level is the best way to level it, I found this out. Use a jacking plate between the jack and frame to spread the pressure so that you don't bend the frame from the pressure of the jack. I will be using a piece of 1/4" angle iron to do this.
Read up on how to support your house at whatever height it will end up being, how to build the proper support piers. I've never seen a MH fall off the piers but my guess is it isn't pretty!
When I level I use a single 20 ton jack and lots of temporary spacers.
With a water level I determine the lowest point and start there.
I do one support pier location at a time, raise a maximum of one inch and do all pier locations along one side of the home as required a maximum of 1 inch. I then move to the other side, all piers a maximum of 1 inch as required. Once I get both sides, all piers, as level as possible I can then, working one full side at a time, 1 inch per lift, raise the entire home safely to the desired height. I say as level as possible due to the fact that unlevel homes tend to develop a twist in the frame that is not completely removable at the time of leveling. I have left homes with some pier locations, especially corners, suspended in mid air to allow the frame to untwist, results are mixed.
By this method, one side at a time, alternating side to side maximum 1 inch where required you avoid putting a twist in the frame or having the frame unsupported floating in mid air above piers while leveling. This is a slow exacting process that achieves the safest results.
PS. I consider someone a professional if they have personally been hired to performed a job and have done that job often enough using the correct techniques to be able to repeatedly achieve quality results.
I do not measure a mans abilities by his education and certificates I measure him by his skill and experience.
With a water level I determine the lowest point and start there.
I do one support pier location at a time, raise a maximum of one inch and do all pier locations along one side of the home as required a maximum of 1 inch. I then move to the other side, all piers a maximum of 1 inch as required. Once I get both sides, all piers, as level as possible I can then, working one full side at a time, 1 inch per lift, raise the entire home safely to the desired height. I say as level as possible due to the fact that unlevel homes tend to develop a twist in the frame that is not completely removable at the time of leveling. I have left homes with some pier locations, especially corners, suspended in mid air to allow the frame to untwist, results are mixed.
By this method, one side at a time, alternating side to side maximum 1 inch where required you avoid putting a twist in the frame or having the frame unsupported floating in mid air above piers while leveling. This is a slow exacting process that achieves the safest results.
PS. I consider someone a professional if they have personally been hired to performed a job and have done that job often enough using the correct techniques to be able to repeatedly achieve quality results.
I do not measure a mans abilities by his education and certificates I measure him by his skill and experience.
An individual must enforce his own meaning in life and rise above the perceived conformity of the masses. (Anton LaVey)
ponch37300 and Greg S.
I own a couple jacks and have access to any number of them.Now that you've set me in the right dirrection, I think we'll go up with one side at a time using the water level and jacks at every pier.. It never occurred to me to do one side at a time, I would have started at one end and probably folded the roof up like an accordion. I'm just guessing that we'll take it up a foot, it may be even more. I haven't seen it since we bought the land.I want at least 30 inches between the grd and the frame rails.
It's a couple hundred miles up the street so I'm just trying to line up all my ducks now before i go up there, as I'll probably go up early Monday and come back home Thurs night and I don't want to spend a lot of time up there looking for things that we have right here. thanks
I own a couple jacks and have access to any number of them.Now that you've set me in the right dirrection, I think we'll go up with one side at a time using the water level and jacks at every pier.. It never occurred to me to do one side at a time, I would have started at one end and probably folded the roof up like an accordion. I'm just guessing that we'll take it up a foot, it may be even more. I haven't seen it since we bought the land.I want at least 30 inches between the grd and the frame rails.
It's a couple hundred miles up the street so I'm just trying to line up all my ducks now before i go up there, as I'll probably go up early Monday and come back home Thurs night and I don't want to spend a lot of time up there looking for things that we have right here. thanks
I would grab some hard wood pallets and take them apart. Use the hard wood blocks from them and go a little at a time on each pier. Once you start getting close use the water level to see how far off you are. Remember Pipes & cables will need to be extended also.
If you go with the one side at a time keep a close eye on the piers on the low side, they may try to kick out, that's why I would do a few inches at a time on each pier. Slow and steady.
Greg
If you go with the one side at a time keep a close eye on the piers on the low side, they may try to kick out, that's why I would do a few inches at a time on each pier. Slow and steady.
Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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