New member - questions on siding/residing a mobile home

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noratraceforme
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 10:01 am

I am a new member and this looked like a very informative forum so I thought I would try here.

I recently inherited a used mobile home on a city lot. It has been neglected for a couple of years and the windows leaked. So the siding around some of the windows pretty much rotted away say within about 6" of one or two sides of a number of windows. So I replaced the windows and some were not the exact size so when they were framed in some places the siding might be 6" -12" short of the window. The area of the windows are the same just the overall dimensions are different so it does meet lighting/egress requirements. So for the time being I just installed some very wide trim to cover the siding shortness to the window.

The house is an 86 Fleetwood 14' X 70. The original siding was like fiberboard - pressed sawdust. I tried a little to find the same product locally but am unable to. I didn't look very hard as I really want to get something a little more durable. So the main question is a plan of attack to correct this. Would you recommend replace the siding with something like SMARTSIDE which is in 4' X 8' sheets. The stuff I found locally is only about 3/8" thick but said it is good for framing on 16" centers which this house is. I don't know if that is good for occupied structures or just sheds and such but i can look into that. That is my first option. my second option would be to cover over the existing siding with something like SMARTSIDE. This would work as then I could side it right up to the window. My concern here would be the weight of the additional layer of siding. Or go with some other type of siding over what is already there. But again the concern here would be the added weight. Like i said this is in town so I need to make sure the decision will meet the building code for mobile homes. So many windows were affected that I will have to side/reside the entire home.

Thanks for your recommendations and look forward to learning about mobile homes.
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Greg
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Hi & welcome. That type of siding War The subject of a class action suit Just for the reasons you have. I think if it were me, I would remove the old siding & put down OSB underlay with Vinyl siding.

A word of caution is that you be be opening Pandora's box. I will almost bet that you are going to find some structural rot that will also need to be repaired. Usually not a huge job, but I want to make you aware of the possibility.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
noratraceforme
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 10:01 am

Thanks for the info Greg. I didn't even know they did that to mobile homes, the OSB then siding route. I just want to make sure the weight isn't too much. I already took off the sheetrock and the paneling on the inside as well as a bunch of the insulation where it was wet. The 2 X 4s around the windows that were rotted have already been replaced. But I will look into going that way. It should be a good project for this summer.

Thanks again.
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Greg
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If you feel that weight may be a issue, and it could indeed be consider adding parameter blocking under the outer rim joist. There are many mobiles out there that have issues with bowed floor joists due to excessive weight.

It sounds like you have made a good start on solving the problems. Don't forget to use house wrap (Tyvek) over the OSB.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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JD
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Personally, I would have no qualms with using Smartside Panel without an OSB sheathing. It is rated for installation with or without. I have installed this product many times and I do like it. You do need to check with your local code office about the use of sheathing as well as vapor barrier placement. The siding panels, like most siding products, does require a breathable moisture barrier behind the siding. Some areas will also require a vapor barrier on the inside wall.

Be sure to to seal all edges, especially the bottom, before installation. Don't leave cut unprotected edges near windows and doors etc. I would use Ame's Super Primer for the edges, but paint should work. I would even seal the edges that will be caulked as the caulk will stick to the Ame's primer much better than to the primed panel. Ame's sells water proofing paints too. Be sure to follow all installation instructions, which are basically the same as other siding products, such as, expansion gaps, off of the ground, nail patterns, etc. Here are the install instructions. http://www.lpcorp.com/WorkArea/Download ... px?id=2913

Smartside Panels are a major improvement over the old hardboard siding law suit stuff. Smartside is actually a result of the law suits and siding failures from Louisiana Pacific, Georgia Pacific, Masonite, Abtco, etc. Smartside is a Louisiana Pacific product.
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JimCNY
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Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2007 7:14 pm
Location: Central New York

I have put Smartside on two sheds and my dbl. wide and I love it. As far as holding up I have some scrap pieces that have been laying on the ground for five years. They have not delaminated or show any king of rot.
One thing though be sure to wear a mask when you make any cuts,the dust is pretty nasty.
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JD
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That sounds more like Hardie Panel, the cementuous fiberboard stuff. And after reading my post, it sounds like I am plugging Smartside. I don't mean to. It is just wood panel siding, but it performs more like I would expect it to and not like pressed cardboard siding.
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All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
noratraceforme
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Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 10:01 am

I will look into the smartside as well. I have some and it looked pretty good, i just didn't know how well it would hold up. I was over there over the weekend. Most of the siding that is on there now is okay with the exception of maybe a few inches below some of the windows. There are also a few windows that were resized and now there is a 6" gap where the siding doesn't reach up the the window. Would there be a real big disadvantage to just use OSB to patch the bad spots/holes and then side the original siding with vinyl siding? Or wouldn't you recommend that? I want to do a decent job but am hoping I could do the work in about a week. If i put on OSB or smartside there is a board on the top the length of the trailer under the drip edge that would have to come down as well as one along the bottom as that is were the skirting is attached to. When I checked my Lowes & Home Depot they did not carry the 1/2" smartside (can special order it) but carried something about 3/8" It is stamped for 16" OC which my trailer is. That just seems a little thin to me.

Thanks!
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JD
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The 3/8"is thinner than hardboard siding, which is usually 1/2" or 5/8". If I were trying to blend Smartside into the existing siding, I would use strips 1/8" plywood for shims. The ply is usually around $20 and can make around 30 shims. Obviously a table saw is best for making shims, but careful cutting with a skil or circular saw would work.

Your best bet is to order the thicker siding and do the job thoroughly by removing trim, siding and the window to get a fresh install. You really want your window mounted to your new siding. Trying to waterproof a butt joint in siding is possible but sometimes difficult.
☯JD♫
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All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
noratraceforme
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Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 10:01 am

I don't plan to blend the Smartside in with the original siding. If I go with the Smartside I will remove all the siding from all 4 sides of the mobile home and replace it with Smartside. It just seems that 3/8" is a little thin to be the only sheathing on the outside. If I go this way, there will be nothing more on top other than painting it. The other options are to either do the entire home with OSB then cover it with vinyl siding as Greg recommended. This would be the costliest route. Another option, would be to patch the existing gaps with 1/2 OSB and cover the trailer in vinyl siding, this would leave the original fiberboard siding on there, just covered with vinyl. Are there any real negatives to that. Am hoping to start this around 1 May.

Thanks again
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Greg
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If you want to go with vinyl, you may get lucky and find siding that has been removed from a home. I see it on craig's list cheap from time to time. there was 12sq for $200 last week.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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JD
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Yes, repairing the existing siding and then covering with tyvek and vinyl siding is a very viable option. You do want to nail into studs and not screw or nail into the siding. It is very important that your siding does not leak, as moisture trapped in the wall can be a big problem. You really need to think out how you are going to do the windows and doors. Don't rely on caulk alone. I would use aluminum flashing with the caulk. You want the flashing to be able to do the job when the caulk fails. The top course of siding will probably need flashing with a good plan as well.
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
noratraceforme
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Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 10:01 am

I plan to use all new material purchased at a place like Lowe's or Home Depot. I got a quote to put on they vinyl siding and it is $2300 with me furnishing all the material. Granted, I would believe the home would look probably better in vinyl siding as opposed to the 4X8 sheets of Smartside. The Smartside would certainly be a lot cheaper as it would be only about $1k for the material and i would probably just put it up myself. I've never had a house with vinyl siding but it seems like if there was a problem in the wall or a leak it would be quite a bit of work to remove the siding to get to it. On the other hand just removing a 4X8 sheet seems a lot easier. Would you think the vinyl siding would be guard better against the rain & snow than the Smartside? I would think Smartside would be better as there would be less linear feet of joints. Just a guess though. Either way I go I will wrap either the existing siding with Tyvek if i go with vinyl siding or the framing with Tyvek if I go with Smartside.

Thanks
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JD
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If money is an issue and it always is for me it seems, I would order the thicker Smartside panels. The Smartside panels are more "waterproof" than vinyl siding and many vinyl re-sided homes will develop leaks. This generally has to do with the quality of install more than the materials, but the fact remains that many vinyl resided homes leak a little. I know that I can install Smartside and KNOW there will be no siding leaks. The instructions and warranty from vinyl siding manufacturers will state that it is the moisture barrier that is water proof portion of the siding and that the vinyl siding itself is not leak proof. With vinyl siding, it is the moisture barrier, flashing and quality installation that is key to no damaging leaks.
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
noratraceforme
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 10:01 am

Thank you all for your recommendations thus far. Cost isn't an issue, within reason. Just don't want to spend $10k on a trailer that probably isn't worth that. Like I said it is in town on its own lot so there are no monthly costs other than utilities. Just looking to have it done the right way and look nice. I am leaning toward the smartside so I plan to go by the Home Depot / Lowes today and look at it. If the 3/8" is rated for 16" studs then I will most likely go with that just because it would be a lot lighter and easier to work with. If not then I will go with the 7/16". It just seems it would be a little more weather tight with the smartside.

Thanks again and will keep you informed.
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