coleman president no pilot
hello i'm a newb so bear with me, i have a coleman presidential that the pilot will not light at all, i got the whole burner assy out of it and took the thermocoupler and cleaned it and noticed that the pilot supply tube looked like it had a valve of some sort in the tube down by the pilot itself? is that maybe not opening letting the gas thru?? or is it the thermocoupler?
Hi,
Pilot tube runs from gas valve to the pilot burner and thermocouple mounts beside the pilot burner.
IF the pilot will not light at all, clean pilot burner, orifice and pilot tubing.
If it still won't light, most likely a bad thermocouple or gas valve.
Thanks,
Robert
Pilot tube runs from gas valve to the pilot burner and thermocouple mounts beside the pilot burner.
IF the pilot will not light at all, clean pilot burner, orifice and pilot tubing.
If it still won't light, most likely a bad thermocouple or gas valve.
Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
from what i've read the pilot tube has an orifice at the end? on mine i cannot see any hole in this so gas could get thru , i've tried cleaning but not knowing what kind and how big the whole is i;m not sure how to do it, by the way i put a new thermo coupler on but that didnt solve the problem.
update: i have since gotten the hole in the orifce oped but still the pilot will not light ! so far new thermocoupler, cleaned the orifice, pilot tube, and exposed the hole, one other thing i did notice that the damper is trying to close, or open, when i turn the thermostat up to test the pilot to light, i assume the damper needs to be in the open position to light the pilot or even the burner? but i have tried to light the pilot with it both open and closed and it still dont light. it's lookin like its a valve to the tune of a couple hundred bucks???!! then if the damper dont straighten out thats another hundred or so.??...................... GOOD GRIEF !!
Hi,
The only damper is to a blend air system if yours has that. It is a separate system and has no effect on the furnace pilot.
As for as the costs, this is why it is often cheaper and quicker to call an hvac tech out and only get what is needed.
I would not advise a gas valve without it being tested.
Thanks,
Robert
The only damper is to a blend air system if yours has that. It is a separate system and has no effect on the furnace pilot.
As for as the costs, this is why it is often cheaper and quicker to call an hvac tech out and only get what is needed.
I would not advise a gas valve without it being tested.
Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
Need to check and see if it allowing gas to flow through to pilot. Needs to be tested by an hvac tech with it still installed in furnace.
Thanks,
Robert
Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
okay; so i had a tech. come over and it was the gas valve, to the tune of $375.00. now he tells me that the damper is not operating properly! he said it has to be open for the furnace to run and it will not stay open, he sugested keeping it open, (or tapeing the switch closed) so it will work temporarly?? but needed to get it fixed at some point.those are expensive too! my question is now what will that do ?? will that let gasses or fumes into the house???
Hi,
$375 for the gas valve only or gas valve and labor ? The only damper is in the blend air system as stated earlier and has no effect on the furnace operation.
Thanks,
Robert
$375 for the gas valve only or gas valve and labor ? The only damper is in the blend air system as stated earlier and has no effect on the furnace operation.
Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
375.00 part and labor, took 4 day;s to get here from about 12 hrs. away! go figure.(pony express)but anyway its running good except for that damper thing, so it should be okay to run the way it is(switch closed)for a while? and by the way I want to thank you for your time and patients with me on this matter,when the tech. did show up as he was checking stuff I could tell him " nope aint that. already checked it" and all he did is just what i was told to do on this site. so again I thank you !
Hi,
Go here and read and look at this article from our site:
http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/ArticleBlendAir.html
Just want to be sure that the damper in the article is the damper you are referring to. This article will also help to troubleshoot the blend air system if this is it.
Thanks,
Robert
Go here and read and look at this article from our site:
http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/ArticleBlendAir.html
Just want to be sure that the damper in the article is the damper you are referring to. This article will also help to troubleshoot the blend air system if this is it.
Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
Hi,
That's why I kept asking questions and why it is very important to give furnace model number when posting questions here.
With the model number of furnace, I will know what your furnace has and doesn't have.
That damper does need to be open during combustion process and heat cycle.
Is the damper motor bad or something else ?
Thanks,
Robert
That's why I kept asking questions and why it is very important to give furnace model number when posting questions here.
With the model number of furnace, I will know what your furnace has and doesn't have.
That damper does need to be open during combustion process and heat cycle.
Is the damper motor bad or something else ?
Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
okay it's a model # 7956C856, serial # 039173844, UPDATE : took the combustion damper out of the system, I did this by taking it out and drilling the rivit out that held the flapper onto the shaft and removed the flapper.I then needed to keep the switch in the closed position so the burner would run I did this by taking both wires off the switch and hooked them together and then reinstalled so i could plug the hole where it came out of in the duct work. another problem I'm having NOW is if i set the thermostat on 72 it doesnt seem to want to shut off, i turn the t- stat all the way down but burner seems to want to stay going ?? t- stat is a hunter didgital maybe 2 -3 y/o
Hi,
When room temp is satisfied, need to see if you are still getting 24VAC at gas valve .
I would also replace the Hunter t-stat with a Honeywell or White-Rodgers.
Thanks,
Robert
When room temp is satisfied, need to see if you are still getting 24VAC at gas valve .
I would also replace the Hunter t-stat with a Honeywell or White-Rodgers.
Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
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