does anyone have a part number for the sequencers for an Intertherm E1EB-015HA
THANKS
need parts for intertherm
Hi,
Sequencer #621383 @ $20.90
Sequencer #621696 @ $19.04
Shipping = $6.75
You can see and order both through PayPal from this page:
http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/NordyneElec.html
Or, by calling toll free after 9AM CST Mon thru Fri to
1-877-263-7860 and charging to Visa or Mastercard.
Let me know if outside the U.S. for added info.
Thanks for inquiring,
Robert
Sequencer #621383 @ $20.90
Sequencer #621696 @ $19.04
Shipping = $6.75
You can see and order both through PayPal from this page:
http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/NordyneElec.html
Or, by calling toll free after 9AM CST Mon thru Fri to
1-877-263-7860 and charging to Visa or Mastercard.
Let me know if outside the U.S. for added info.
Thanks for inquiring,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
Thanks for the help so far Robert, Now I have a new problem. ![Image](http://mobilehomerepair.com/phpbb/userpix/1493_fwd_1.jpg)
in the diagram where the sequencer is, the saw tooth looking symbols under M4-M3 and M5-M6 is a symbol for internal resistance but is that the connecting tabs at the bottom of the sequencer closest to the mounting plate?, that are unmarked? There are 2 sequencers one has M1-M4 and the other M5-M6. My question is Does the BLACK/WHITE wire going to the 24V side of the transformer and the WHITE wire going to the T-STAT harness go to the sequencer with M1-M4, and the and the Black wire from Blower Relay post 3 and BLUE wire from the T-STAT go to the sequencer with M5-M6?
a friend had replaced the sequencers a while back but there was no diqgram used then and the BLACK/WHITE and WHITE wires were on M5-M6 seq. and BLACK and BLUE were on M1-M4 seq.
My father replaced the BLOWER RELAY and TRANSFORMER a few days ago, and on the Blower Relay he had the wires from post 2 and 5 switched around, the system worked but could not turn the Blower on with ON switch on T-STAT. with it like this I had to put Auto/On switch at T-Stat to ON and Auto/On switch at furnace to Auto for Heater to Work if not the heating element would heat up but blower would not come.
After finding my wiring diagram yesterday I wanted to check and see if I could get the AUTO/ON switches working correctly. I first notice the Sequencer wire from 2nd paragraph and switched then to the way stated in 1st paragraph, but DID NOT notice the switched BLOWER RELAY wires. Turned the breakers on, noticed a flash and turned them off. Then noticed the switched wires on relay and thought they may have caused the flash. I put the Relay wires in correct places according to the Diagram turned breakers on. The AUTO/ON switches work correctly now BUT now when I turn the heat on the elements heat but the blower does not come on even when all wires are switch bakc to the way they were when the furnace worked. Did I blow the sequencers/ I just ordered new sequencers/ both limit switches, relay, and motor capacitor, transformer is new, I am just going to gut the system and replace all parts But i am confused on the sequencer wireing
THanks
![Image](http://mobilehomerepair.com/phpbb/userpix/1493_fwd_1.jpg)
in the diagram where the sequencer is, the saw tooth looking symbols under M4-M3 and M5-M6 is a symbol for internal resistance but is that the connecting tabs at the bottom of the sequencer closest to the mounting plate?, that are unmarked? There are 2 sequencers one has M1-M4 and the other M5-M6. My question is Does the BLACK/WHITE wire going to the 24V side of the transformer and the WHITE wire going to the T-STAT harness go to the sequencer with M1-M4, and the and the Black wire from Blower Relay post 3 and BLUE wire from the T-STAT go to the sequencer with M5-M6?
a friend had replaced the sequencers a while back but there was no diqgram used then and the BLACK/WHITE and WHITE wires were on M5-M6 seq. and BLACK and BLUE were on M1-M4 seq.
My father replaced the BLOWER RELAY and TRANSFORMER a few days ago, and on the Blower Relay he had the wires from post 2 and 5 switched around, the system worked but could not turn the Blower on with ON switch on T-STAT. with it like this I had to put Auto/On switch at T-Stat to ON and Auto/On switch at furnace to Auto for Heater to Work if not the heating element would heat up but blower would not come.
After finding my wiring diagram yesterday I wanted to check and see if I could get the AUTO/ON switches working correctly. I first notice the Sequencer wire from 2nd paragraph and switched then to the way stated in 1st paragraph, but DID NOT notice the switched BLOWER RELAY wires. Turned the breakers on, noticed a flash and turned them off. Then noticed the switched wires on relay and thought they may have caused the flash. I put the Relay wires in correct places according to the Diagram turned breakers on. The AUTO/ON switches work correctly now BUT now when I turn the heat on the elements heat but the blower does not come on even when all wires are switch bakc to the way they were when the furnace worked. Did I blow the sequencers/ I just ordered new sequencers/ both limit switches, relay, and motor capacitor, transformer is new, I am just going to gut the system and replace all parts But i am confused on the sequencer wireing
THanks
This thing has me stumped I have pulled and tested every part in this furnace and they are fine but still when it elements get hot the blower will not come on (pooie )
Hi,
Did you order those parts from us ?
To answer your first two questions, yes and yes.
Wire it up identical to the diagram. Remember, just because something won't work, doesn't mean it is wired wrong.
The wiring connection pins inside the molex connector plugs get loose and don't make contact sometimes.
Get a multi meter and check voltages to find interruption in circuit.
Thanks,
Robert
Did you order those parts from us ?
To answer your first two questions, yes and yes.
Wire it up identical to the diagram. Remember, just because something won't work, doesn't mean it is wired wrong.
The wiring connection pins inside the molex connector plugs get loose and don't make contact sometimes.
Get a multi meter and check voltages to find interruption in circuit.
Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
Yeah , I ordered all parts from your site. I need to go back and check the voltage on the sequencers, I only check ohms, and continuity. what should my respective voltages be. I will check them after work
Thanks Rick
Thanks Rick
At Sequencer WITHOUT call for heat:
H1/H2 (bottom terminals under M1-M4) = 0 VAC
H3/H4 (bottom terminals under M5/M6) = 0 VAC
M1 to ground = 120 VAC
M2 to ground = 120 VAC
M3 " " = 120 VAC
M4 " " = 120 VAC
M5 " " = 120 VAC
M6 " " = 120 VAC
M1/M2 = 240 VAC
M3/M4 = 240 VAC
M5/M6 = 240 VAC
WITH call for heat after 1 - 2 minutes:
H1/H2 = 24-28 VAC
H3/H4 = 24-28 VAC
ALL M to ground still should read 120 VAC
M1/M2 = 0 VAC
M3/M4 = 0 VAC
M5/M6 = 0 VAC
You should read 240 VAC across the end terminals of each element coil.
You should read 0 VAC across the Limits with call for heat.
At Blower Relay WITH call for heat :
1 & 3 = 0 VAC
5 & 6 = 0 VAC
2 & 4 = 240 VAC
Hope this helps, thanks for ordering.
Take care and best wishes,
Robert
H1/H2 (bottom terminals under M1-M4) = 0 VAC
H3/H4 (bottom terminals under M5/M6) = 0 VAC
M1 to ground = 120 VAC
M2 to ground = 120 VAC
M3 " " = 120 VAC
M4 " " = 120 VAC
M5 " " = 120 VAC
M6 " " = 120 VAC
M1/M2 = 240 VAC
M3/M4 = 240 VAC
M5/M6 = 240 VAC
WITH call for heat after 1 - 2 minutes:
H1/H2 = 24-28 VAC
H3/H4 = 24-28 VAC
ALL M to ground still should read 120 VAC
M1/M2 = 0 VAC
M3/M4 = 0 VAC
M5/M6 = 0 VAC
You should read 240 VAC across the end terminals of each element coil.
You should read 0 VAC across the Limits with call for heat.
At Blower Relay WITH call for heat :
1 & 3 = 0 VAC
5 & 6 = 0 VAC
2 & 4 = 240 VAC
Hope this helps, thanks for ordering.
Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
Thanks for the info, but I have one concern. when I turn on the breakers to power the furnace and with the T-Stat set to OFF the elements still heat up till the limits shut them down and come back on after limit cools. and blower does not come on. is there a way to kill power to the elements and still be able to check voltage on components? I'm a little worried about the element heating up that much while testing voltage. I know the blower works I can trun it on at the T-Stat but the elements still cycle. What is the first thing I should look for. I want to find the problem before I install all the new parts. The furnace worked with H1-H2 and H3-H4 swithced and terminal 2 and 5 switched at the relay but the On/Auto stiches set different on the tstat and furnace, but when I put the wires where the go according to the wiring diagram it started going this. THe furnace was worked on a while back so I think the wires may have gotten switched then. WHy would it work then and not when wired correctly. I traced every wire several time to match it with the diagram. THe sequencers and relay that are in it now are not exact replacement parts. THe only thing I can think of is the wiring diagram I got from Intertherm web site is for a E2EB-015HA and mine is a E1EB-015HA but the only difference I can see between them is the sheet metal housing. Any input would be great it's starting to get chilly in Texas.
Thanks
Rick
Thanks
Rick
Hi Rick,
You have to be powered up to test and have to test quickly.
That can be hazardous if not experienced in it.
Only other way is by ohming each part.
The ONLY parts associated with the blower operation is the sequencer, blower relay and t-stat.
This is most likely a sequencer problem.
Wire exactly like the diagram shows.
Is your t-stat a 2 wire or 4 wire ?
Do you have a/c as well as heat ?
Do you have a Heat/Off/Cool switch AND a Fan/Auto/On switch at front of furnace control box ?
Thanks,
Robert
You have to be powered up to test and have to test quickly.
That can be hazardous if not experienced in it.
Only other way is by ohming each part.
The ONLY parts associated with the blower operation is the sequencer, blower relay and t-stat.
This is most likely a sequencer problem.
Wire exactly like the diagram shows.
Is your t-stat a 2 wire or 4 wire ?
Do you have a/c as well as heat ?
Do you have a Heat/Off/Cool switch AND a Fan/Auto/On switch at front of furnace control box ?
Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
I have a 4 wire T-Stat
A/C and Heat
And only a Fan Auto/On switch at Furnace.
Heat/Off/Cool switch is at the T-Stat
A/C and Heat
And only a Fan Auto/On switch at Furnace.
Heat/Off/Cool switch is at the T-Stat
Got all my new parts today I installed them and the motor works great now and everything it wired correctly. Still when I call for heat elements heat up but blower does not come on. and the Auto/On switch at the furnace does not turn the blower on when switched to ON. What should my next step be?
Thanks
RIck
Thanks
RIck
Could the problem be the Auto/On switch in the furnace? is there a way to put a jumper wire on it to test?
Thanks
Thanks
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