New Heat Pump Installation, Fresh Air Vent Needed? EM. Heat

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Amyh

Multiple Questions:

1. Hi, I just replaced my coleman furnace with a 13 seer 3 ton Westinghouse Heat Pump and air mover with 410a refrigerent. During installation the techs. didn't hook up my fresh air vent hose. The hose is a large flexable tube hanging from the ceiling that was used with the old coleman furnace. I asked about it and was told it was not needed with a heat pump.

My concern even though they taped the vent closed inside. Will this cause moisture build up inside the roof or any other problems. The vent is still open on the roof. Also, The air is very dry now and I'm having problems with sinus at night when sleeping. Could this be because the vent was closed off inside.

2. Also, I was testing the em. heat. They was to install 10 kw heat inside the indoor furnace unit. When testing this the em. heat would cycle on and off but didn't raise temp two degrees after 2 hours. The fan continues to run between em heat cycles. I think its cooling it back down before the em. heat cycles back on. Is this normal... ? Could it be a programing/wiring problem or was the 10kw heat kit not installed or not installed properly. My old furnace would heat better than this.

3. Was told this unit would run more than my old coleman furnace. Didn't understand why? Shouldn't it run less. Was told that honeywell digital thermostat was very sensative to 1/2 degree and would cause unit to run more. Worried that instead of decreasing electric bill will have higher electric bill. ? Should the heat pump run more? Could this be a installation issue?
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Robert
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Posts: 6413
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Hi,

Those fresh air/blend air systems are not designed with all other units.


Without it hooked up, will need another way of ventilating the attic air space.


It will bring in fresh air to mix with stale return air in home and ventilate the attic air space.

It has nothing to do with whether it is a HP or not.


A Heat Pump runs both during summer and winter. It should be supplemented with back up heat source that will come on when outside temp gets around 40* and supplement the HP.


If outside temps gets below 35*, an outside t-stat should turn HP off and the back up heat then be utilized for heating the home.



If you live in an area that has alot of below freezing temps in winter, a HP is not always the best choice.


All of this should have been adequately explained before install. It now needs to be brought to their attention for this issue to be resolved since it is under warranty.


As to whether it will run more or less, depends on unit, set up and location.


The main issue is whether it runs enough to heat and cool home comfortably while maintaining efficiency such as the electric bill each month.



Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
Amyh

What other ways can I vent the attic space?

And do you think this should be brought up to the installers to replace or fix since they disconnected it. Would something like this normally be covered as part of an install?
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Robert
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Posts: 6413
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Hi,

Turbine roof ventilators, gable vents, roof peak ridge-vents, etc...

It would not be part of install if the unit being installed did not come designed for it.

In my opinion, they should have either installed unit compatible to it or gave you alternatives and explained how else to ventilate the attic area.


There are more MH's without those than with them, but all attic areas should be ventilated somehow.


Yours may have just been a fresh air system and not an attic ventilator as well.

You would need model number of your Blend Air to know.


If fresh air is all that was there, you can get air purifiers, dehumidifiers , etc.. to do this for you also.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
Amyh

Ok thanks for the info.
Amyh

Oh, almost forgot. The em heat problems was because a jumper was not put on the honeywell thermostat. Tech. added jumper on stat between E and Aux or maybe considered Y2 and W2. Is working o.k.

Also, added a 1/2 lb r-410a refrigerent. I was getting 90 degree at all registers when heating with heat pump after added refrigerent went over 110 degrees. Also cooling was only blowing 65 degree air at all registers. Now down to 50 degrees. Unit isn't running as much now except when its really cold out.

Tonight will be a good test will be 17 degrees outside tonight. But, I can't tell how much aux. or em heat is coming on with unit. Stat is no longer flashing aux heat since it was jumpered. I hope its not on aux or em heat all the time. I don't think so because the outside unit is coming on and off. Wish there was some way of telling when the em / aux heat was coming on with heat pump. Any ideas. The indoor furnace is sealed and I can't see the heat strips to tell if they are on or not. Afraid it would void my warranty if I took off cover to look.
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Robert
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Posts: 6413
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

When inside furnace is on to supplement the HP, there should be a light on at the t-stat showing this.


All units are different as well as t-stats and all depends on whether an outdoor t-stat was installed or not.



Have Tech answer these questions as they installed it and are familiar with the set up.



Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
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