Problem with my newly painted cabinets

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Robin
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Location: Epps, Louisiana

Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:40 pm

We have the wood-look cabinets, which were getting in bad shape. After researching, I decided to sand, prime, and paint them white. It was a big job but when we were done, they looked 900 times better! But now, I can still see the really bad spots where we had to sand a good bit. The wood-look covering had gotten wet and swelled the particle board underneath, so those places we sanded a good bit, and I thought the primer and paint would take care of the issue. I used latex primer and paint. Instead of having to do this job over completely, I was comtemplating painting just the doors with oil based paint, perhaps in a sprayer. Any suggestions or comments? Can I even paint with oil based over latex? What kind of preparations do I need to make? It's a small fix, my kitchen still looks so much better than it did, but my OCD cannot let me ignore this issue :)


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Greg
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Tue Oct 02, 2012 6:23 pm

I "think" you can go oil over latex, but I would check with a Paint store pro first. They also may have some other ideas also. There is also water base enamel also. You could try playing around with different glosses also.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."

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Robin
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Location: Epps, Louisiana

Tue Oct 02, 2012 9:03 pm

Okay thanks, I will. But do you have any idea why this occurred? When we painted them, and I put 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of paint, we couldn't see anything thru the paint. But now we can. Strange. I have touched up the paint a couple of times, and then over time, I can see the bad spots again. I am really hoping oil based paint will solve this issue.

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Greg
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Wed Oct 03, 2012 6:08 pm

I have had the same thing happen painting cars. Sometimes it looks fine until you put the finish coat on, then it turns into a "Where did that come from".

All I can say re sand and try again.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."

ponch37300
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Thu Oct 04, 2012 11:55 am

I have done a few kitchen cabinets and always use oil base for durability, although there are some pretty good latex paints out there. There are a few things that come to mind with your situation.

First, what brand paint did you use? I use to use paint from box stores but went to a real paint store one day, sherwin williams, and bought some paint. It is 100 times better than the box stores and WELL worth the extra costs. Anyone that tells you paint is paint hasn't used the good stuff or isn't telling you the truth. It costs a little more but in the end it saves you time and money and problems. Sherwin williams has a 30% off sale about once a month also so it's price on sale isn't much more than the box stores, got an email there is a sale this weekend. Also the people working at the box stores really don't know much about paint, but they pretent to! The employees at the paint stores will be able to help you a lot more. I brought a cabinet door in from my kitchen and they were able to give me suggestins and even mixed up a few small batches of paint so I could get the right color and showed me how to apply them and glaze the cabinet door. They went out of their way to make sure that my project was done right. All that made the extra cost well worth it and the project went smooth.

Anyways, you used a water based primer and paint where you sanded down to the bare wood. Sometimes water based paints will raise or swell the wood, it's like putting water on bare wood. This may or may not have been the case. Also a water based primer is going to have a hard time covering a water stain, it's just adding to the problem. Particle board soaks up water like crazy.

Here is what I would do. Sand the cabinets good again, especially in the bad areas. Wash the doors lightly with TSP, don't drench them, just use a damp rag. Then use an oil base primer, a GOOD one. It may cost a little more but should get the job done. The oil base should seal in the water issues. Then cover with an oil base paint. You can also add a poly top coat to add some durability.

Oil will usually go over latex fine, but not the other way around.

Do you have a sherwin williams or benjimen moore paint store in your area? If so take a door in and ask them to help. They will be able to tell you exactly what went wrong and how to fix the easiest way and the right way. If you have a sherwin williams they have a 30% sale this weekend so you can buy quality paint for around the same price as the stuff the sell at box stores.

Hopefully this helps and good luck. Let me know if there is anything else I might be able to help with.


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Greg S
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Thu Oct 04, 2012 3:33 pm

I would start again by applying a primer sealer instead of simply a primer. Sand lightly between coats with a 220 grit. Apply two coats of primer sealer followed by two coats (or as needed) top coat.

At this point only doing half the job (doors) will result in a obvious difference in finish.
An individual must enforce his own meaning in life and rise above the perceived conformity of the masses. (Anton LaVey)

ladybug
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Thu Oct 18, 2012 12:50 pm

Have been reading with great interest the posts on painting these beautiful "fake" cabinets that I hate with a pure passion, of course I can't afford to replace them and for nearly a year have been talking to people (contractors, painters etc) as to whether or not they can be painted. Some said yes, some said no. I took one my doors in to Porter Paints and he said yes I could paint them. He said I would need what is called a "binder" and then could paint them. I think I will print some of these posts and carry them with me when I go to get the paint and let him see some of the problems top make sure I get everything I need in one trip, (live in a small town and have to drive 30 miles) So thankful I thought to check this site before starting this project!

On another subject, I hated my carpet as bad or worse than the cabinets, but I am trying to live on my disability and replacing anything is not in my budget. A very dear dear of mine said she wanted to replace my flooring, that it would make her very happy and I certainly wanted to make her happy!!!! Another dear friend said the two of us could take the old carpet out and save some money, which we did. The carpet was no problem but somebody was really enjoying themselves when they put the staples in, that nearly killed us. Now to the point of all this......I live in a double wide, in the living room section along where the two parts are joined we found that the carpet was damp and in fact was actually wet in one spot. Here is the part that no one believes us about.....the carpet pad was NOT even damp, in fact it was dry and sandy as one would expect nearly 20 year old pad to be. There is not one sign of any moisture having been on the plywood, it looks brand new, anyone that sees it can vouch that it has never been damp or wet.
The carpet was badly stained there and circled about a foot out from the joint across 90% of the floor. The carpets have not been cleaned in a year, it really didn't feel damp from the top side of the carpet. How in the world can this happen????? I am a bit worried about having my new laminate put down next week. Though I've not been blessed with $$$$$, I'm certainly rich in friends!

One more quick question...my Mother had an older dog that had "accidents' in his last days. Though I've cleaned the carpet many times since his death, any dog that ever comes in here goes straight to the spot where he would have the accident. Should I put some kind of "sealer" over that area or will the foam skin and laminate stop that?
v

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Greg
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Thu Oct 18, 2012 5:10 pm

Weird. Was it raining around that time? I think I would suspect a small roof leak if it was. I agree with you, I think some of the builders are paid by the staple. As far as the dog issue goes, you could use a can of spray sealer in the spots before you put the new floor down but I doubt you will need it.

Glad you are making headway. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."

ladybug
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Fri Oct 19, 2012 12:11 am

Thanks for your reply Greg, to answer your question no we had no rain. I went by a mobile home dealership this afternoon, they said they couldn't imagine what was going on, however she did say that whatever atmosphere was in the living room would continue and suggested I use a dehumidifier. Last year I had to deal with a horrible mold problem in master bath to the tune of $6,000 and my bogus insurance company (Farm Bureau) would not pay it, though it as clearly their fault. Problem finally solved with installation of ridge vent along roof, removing bath & part of bedroom ceiling, installing vent fan and treating whole house for mold. Maybe a dehumidifier would be a good idea.

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Greg
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Fri Oct 19, 2012 8:02 pm

Also check UNDER your home, do you have enough ventilation in the skirting? The rule of thumb is 1.5sq ft/100 sq ft of floor space at a minimum. If you have moisture trapped under your home it will come up through it. I ran an industrial dehu for a week to get our's down, than added more ventilation.

If you have a bath ventilation fan run it, if not you may want to add one.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."

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