metal skirting

texas2007 · Wed May 30, 2007 3:34 pm

Hi. I am new to the board. I just have a question about skirting. Right now I have vinyl skirting on a 04 mobile home single wide. I am wanting to replace it with metal skirting but cannot find anyone that sells it. What would I look under in the phone book for this information?(metal, steel ect.) Also do you have any tips or advice for what all you need to buy to install skirting and how to actually install it? My husband is doing it but I am just wanting to get all the supplies. Also-The one place that I found that sells it gave me a quote of $650.00 for a 16x76 house with 3 foot height. This was for the metal skirting being ordered cut, something around the top that he said I would need and all the screws. Does this sound reasonable?thanks

Yanita · Wed May 30, 2007 4:44 pm

Hi,

Providing you have a few simple hand tools this is a DIY project.

Metal skirting is corrugated roof metal, sold at all hardware and big box stores.

Go to the Articles link at the top of the page and scroll down till you come to Monster skirting.

~Yanita~

Yanita · Wed May 30, 2007 7:47 pm

Hey,

I just stood corrected..the name of the article is "A better skirting idea" LOL, somewhere this skirting is referred to as Monster skirting...

Anyways take a look at the article, within the article is another link that will show you the install.

~Yanita~

Greg · Wed May 30, 2007 8:13 pm

I think Monster skirting was the name used in the newsletter. Greg

JD · Wed May 30, 2007 9:53 pm

Hey Texas,

Is the ground around your home level? If you want to use a bottom track, the ground would have to be perfect or you will need to cut the skirting to fit. Having the skirting precut can still work though. You would need to find the tallest point of your skirting and start there. Keep all of the precut edges at the top, lined up with your chalkline and cut the bottoms to fit the ground.

You could also dig a trench where the skirting will go and let the skirting hang down into the trench. Then back fill with pea gravel. You would want a fairly small round rock type to allow movement as the home settles or the ground heaves.

Either way, you will want to be sure there is some headroom for movement or the skirting will bow and buckle.

JD

Maureen · Thu May 31, 2007 12:21 am

Personally, if you can find someone reputable, that can install metal skirting on a single wide for $650.00, I say go for it!

But you do need a bottom foundation to secure it to. Like JD mentioned, it also needs a top rail that allows it to move somewhat. How much movement, depends on what neck of the woods your from.

If you could fill out a profile about your area and your home, that would really help in answering your questions. What would work for someone in my area. may not work for someone in the deep South.

Maureen

texas2007 · Fri Jun 01, 2007 11:46 am

well the 650.00 quote was just for the material not for installation. it was for white metal skirting. the roof metal that you are talking about-is it the silver stuff with the circles in it? thanks

JD · Fri Jun 01, 2007 12:55 pm

Roof metal wouldn't have to be silver or galvanized. It could be painted with a baked enamel. It could also come in several rib patterns, not just the plain wavy stuff at most home stores. Check out pole barns (metal buildings) in your area. That painted steel can be used.

You said that the $650 is metal skirting. Installation and quality of the final product makes a big difference if the metal is steel or aluminum. You would not want aluminum to go into the ground (pebble trench). Steel would also have a limited lifespan if put in a pebble trench, but it would last much longer than aluminum.

If it were me using metal, I would go with a factory baked enamel painted steel panel with the more modern squared ribs, set on top of the ground on to a redwood 2x4 base. Pressure treated wood will eat steel or aluminum. We use pressure treated when installing vinyl. There would be no screws attaching the skirting panels to the mobile home. The panels would be "free-floating" in a top trim similar to Z-bar, made like the top track on aluminum skirting, only I would use something bigger. This is just the way I would do it.

JD

Greg · Fri Jun 01, 2007 7:43 pm

One thing you want to remember to do is keep checking the height of your home, the panels come in different lenghts. you want to buy the lenght that gives you the least amount of wasted metal. So if you are just under 3' or 4' tall buy a 12' panel. 2 1/2' a 10' etc. Greg

JD · Fri Jun 01, 2007 9:44 pm

I think Texas is talking about pre-cut panels at 36" or so. I was trying to point out that the bottoms of the skirting will still need cutting, even if it is delivered pre-cut. You do want the cuts to be accurate straight across the top so it can be installed level.

texas2007 · Sat Jun 02, 2007 5:55 pm

JD wrote:I think Texas is talking about pre-cut panels at 36" or so. I was trying to point out that the bottoms of the skirting will still need cutting, even if it is delivered pre-cut. You do want the cuts to be accurate straight across the top so it can be installed level.

wow! thanks for the help!!

busybee1952 · Wed Jun 06, 2007 6:10 am

JD, you said that pressure treated wood will eat steel skirting so now I'm worried. My home is on a full concrete slab. Currently, there are just regular cheap old 2 x 4's around the perimeter to which the steel skirting was screwed. Right now, I have all of the skirting off due to my underbelly replacement and I was planning on using syrofoam sheets to also insulate behind the skirting before I put it all back up. I was also thinking that I should have pressure treated 2 x 4's since water does seem to stand on the cement slab a bit since the slab extends about a foot beyond the permeter of the home.

So, my question is, should I not get the pressure treated 2 x 4's or is there some other way I should attach my steel skirting at the bottom?

JD · Wed Jun 06, 2007 6:23 pm

Hi Pat,

There is no ideal wood to use now that the pressure treated wood has been changed. Your standard #2 and better 2x4 (here in the west it is Douglas Fir) will last much longer on concrete than in dirt. Redwood will last a lot longer than douglas fir. You can use the fence grade stuff and save some money. The pressure treated wood will cause corrosion even on enamel painted steel fairly quickly.

One thing that may work (guessing, never tried it) is using the vinyl skirting ground channel over the pressure treated wood. It may be effective as a barrier that would stop the electrolysis process. The stuff is very cheap. About $56 worth would go around a 14x70.

JD

Maureen · Wed Jun 06, 2007 11:40 pm

JD, sometimes you're just brilliant LOL! Now don't go gettin' a big old swelled head over that.....

But, one of our sort of close neighbors installed the galvanized metal vertically a few years back. He left the ground channel there and cut all of the metal to fit the panels that he took out. He's retired and this did take some time, but he hasn't had a problem and it still looks brand new!

Maureen

Pete-3 · Sun Aug 26, 2007 10:06 pm

Hi Tex07 - metal panels can also be bought at 'Metal Building' companies. I have a buddy that gets materials from Houston (Mid-West Steel Building Co.). You can also get these with foam insulation already applied. They can cut these at varied lengths; however, I would add a few units together so I would be able to cut 2 or 3 from each length ordered. If you're going to do this yourself, don't be afraid to ask your supplier questions. You will need 'J' channel inverted for the top and self tapping screws which generally are color matched to the panels. I have used quite a bit of this material so far, although not the insulated panels yet. It is super easy to work with; I've cut it with a metal blade in a 'sawzall' and also an electric hand held sheet metal shear. Measure carefully and good luck, Pete