Sagging outer walls, water problems and more...

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
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Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2010 9:51 pm

Thu Jun 10, 2010 10:28 pm

I have a '94 Medallion Mansion single wide home which was not set-up properly, it's on cement pads but not frost footings (we're in the Midwest). We've had quite a lot of water seepage between the siding and the OSB board on the outside, due to no roof overhang (shingles) and some cupping along the perimeter. The outer walls are also sagging you can visually see a slight bulge in the middle as the floor slopes to the outside, I don't know what this is from, the metal frame appears to be OK. The whole home has sunk to the point that you cannot get underneath to repair the insulation (which is in bad shape or non-existent) so my plan was to jack it up high enough to get under there, repair the underbelly, pour frost footings, and then put a metal roof on it and repair the damaged interior last. I've been so discouraged, but after reading some of your posts of homes in much worse shape I'm somewhat encouraged that this may be feasible. My dilemna was mostly about fixing up a home that is basically poorly constructed and drafty and cold in winter, hot in summer which I don't know if I can ever change even if I do all the work. I don't know if the walls are sagging because of the shingle weight or something else. Any posts would be greatly appreciated. I wasn't planning on replacing plumbing but since I don't have PEX, perhaps I should. I would not be doing the work myself, but hiring it out.

Posts: 62
Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2009 2:07 pm

Fri Jun 11, 2010 2:44 am

Others will give you advice. The only reason I saved my home was because it was level, even after 40 years. The frame (ceiling rafters, floor joists, and studs in walls) were in great shape. If they weren't, I don't know if I could have repaired them.

But I have never used a hammer before, or a saw- until now. But if you are handy, you may can get it done.

Posts: 195
Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2010 9:57 am
Location: Pocono Lake, P A

Fri Jun 11, 2010 5:27 am

hello, the wall sag, or floor bowing. can be corrected by perimiter blocking under the ridge joist. see my post under floor bowing in this section , sounds like alotof stuff to do,but don't be discouragred, it's worth it in the end, just almost kinda finished mine 14x60 single ,now i'm starting on my daughters 14x70 zimmer which i think is haunted, nothing going right, but my grandaughter needs her own room , so pop-pop will make it so. chin up just think you could be sitting on a beach in bora bora. :lol:
"a man has got to know his limitations", clint eastwood. " i haven't found mine yet," me

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Location: Fresno, CA

Fri Jun 11, 2010 9:40 am

1994 was the year of a major HUD insulation standards change. The policy was set in 1992 and the change date deadline was in Oct of 1994. If your home was purchased before this date, it may have already had the updated standards (R22 in ceilings, R-19 floor, R13 in walls for Zone 2) as most manufacturers changed to the new code (or was already building within the new code) by the beginning of 1994. But the sale of homes built to 1976 standards (R11 in ceilings, R-11 floor, R11 in walls for Zone 2, zones actually changed in 1994) was legal until Oct 1994.

Anyways, the insulation will not be as bad as almost all homes built before 1976. Adding insulation properly usually entails new siding and a new roof, a very expensive change. Drafts can be stopped cheaply with weather stripping and caulk.

Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.

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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

Fri Jun 11, 2010 5:34 pm

Sagging walls are usually caused by excessive weight on the roof, this causes the floor joists to bend down from the weight. you might get lucky enough to get them to flatten back out with perimeter blocking but I have my doubts. If you are going to do a total renovation you can add blocking and add taper strips to the joists to flatten them back out. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."

Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2010 9:51 pm

Tue Jun 15, 2010 1:47 pm

I noticed that some of the interior walls are also sagging, could that be due to excessive moisture under the home? There was no vapor barrier put down. Also could someone provide or direct me to the proper way to place a single-wide 72x15 on piers? What kind of vapor barrier is typically used and if we do replace all of the insulation, should, do I need to also change the plumbing to all new pex? we have the polybutylene. Also having trouble finding skilled, good people to do the work any suggestions?

Posts: 195
Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2009 2:09 am
Location: Indiana

Wed Jun 16, 2010 8:54 pm

Ive always found that you can find good help by simply asking around, see if anyone else has had good luck with a company/individual. You can also stop by a mobile home store and see who they might recommend in your area.
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