Skirting

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
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Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD

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Jim from Canada
Posts: 541
Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2007 10:39 am
Location: Seaforth, ON

Thu Jun 29, 2017 8:57 am

Almost time to redo my skirting.

I did it 14 years ago on the cheap with 3/4" exterior plywood that I got free, and I must say it has held up pretty well. I braced the bottom with stringers coming diagonally off the wings of the frame. I am thinking of using 1/2" concrete board for the new skirting. I did a section 3 years ago on the end of the home and it seems to be holding up well. Has anyone else used this? How is it working?

https://www.rona.ca/en/durock-cement-board-05285030

From Durock install instructions that fit this exterior install…..

• Adaptable for fences, mobile home skirting, agricultural buildings, garage wainscoting and various exterior synthetic
stucco systems

Exterior Applications In exterior applications, USG Durock® cement board should not be left uncovered for a period
of time exceeding 90 days. Discoloration or staining may occur due to exposure to the elements which will not affect
performance of the panel. Finishes, leveling/skim coats and basecoats shall not be applied to a USG Durock® cement
board panel that is wet or frozen or that contains frost. After application, and for at least 24 hours, finishes, leveling/
skim coats and basecoats shall be effectively protected from rain and excessive moisture.
In cold weather and during finish applications, USG Durock® cement board panel, skim or basecoat, mortar, finish
material and air temperature must be at least 40°F, and must remain at this temperature or higher for at least 24 hours
after application. Hot and dry weather may affect working time of leveling/skim or basecoat and finish materials. Under
rapid drying conditions, dampening or light fogging of board, leveling/skim or basecoat surface may be required to
improve workability.

3.7 Exterior Applications
A Follow the exterior finish manufacturer’s recommendations for finishes applied to USG Durock® cement board.
B It is recommended that a weather-resistive barrier and flashing be installed behind USG Durock® cement board in direct applied
finish applications to provide a means for draining any intruding moisture safely from the exterior of the building.
C Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation, design professional or contract documents for proper sealants and
flashings at openings such as windows and doors.

Brittle coatings, such as epoxy coatings, are not recommended for use with USG Durock® cement board.
USG Durock® cement board is intended for use with tile, thin brick and exterior stucco coatings only.
Remember, minimum code requirement is just that....MINIMUM


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Greg
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Location: Weedsport, NY
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Thu Jun 29, 2017 6:46 pm

"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."

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Jim from Canada
Posts: 541
Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2007 10:39 am
Location: Seaforth, ON

Thu Jun 29, 2017 8:16 pm

Greg wrote:
Thu Jun 29, 2017 6:46 pm
This is what I did.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=10629&p=55511&hilit ... ing#p55511

Greg
That is pretty interesting.

When I did the plywood skirting I first attached a 2x4 all around underneath then screwed the plywood directly to it. The bottom sits in a shallow trench filled with gravel for frost heave. I worked pretty well that way. I only had a bit of an area one year that heaved a bit due to frost and that could have been because it is along the driveway and that is higher than fill in behind the plywood. So there could have been some lateral shifting that occurred and that put the bottom of the plywood offset in the trench.
Remember, minimum code requirement is just that....MINIMUM

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Greg
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Fri Jun 30, 2017 6:02 pm

I just stumbled across the stuff I used on Craigslist for $100. The guy had a yard full of it. It was a protective layer over a rubber roof on a huge building. I figured for a hundred bucks I couldn't go wrong.
Frost is always a concern, but so far so good. The home is on 18" piers 4' deep so it's not going to move.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."

Joe Freeman
Posts: 9
Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2017 8:48 am
Location: Gilbert Pa.

Fri Jul 14, 2017 1:21 pm

I used stockade fence panels backed by foil foam board. Stained both sides top and bottom. Theres enough gaps along the panels to allow venting. Haven't had any issues with freezeing ground. So far lol. Built sort of a retaining wall in the front because of land grade.(slight. hill). Weed eacker proof. Some what critter proof. But if they want to get in they'll find a way.
The problem is not the problem; the problem , is your attitude towards the problem.


UmpJJ
Posts: 110
Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 11:39 am
Location: Brazil, IN

Sun Jul 16, 2017 9:45 am

I did Rapid Wall 7 years ago on our 16 X 80 singlewide. We set the trailer high (42") so I could get under it if I needed to, and the insulated Rapid Wall seemed to be a great option for insulating and being strong enough to prevent blowouts. It has worked to perfection, and I would recommend it.
Explore this site for more info and photos - http://rustiquerapidwall.com/

UmpJJ
Brazil, IN

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Jim from Canada
Posts: 541
Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2007 10:39 am
Location: Seaforth, ON

Sun Jul 16, 2017 5:10 pm

I have 2 of the concrete panels up now. They go 4" into a trench and a further 3" or 4" under that. Put in some landscape fabric and filled with 3/4" crush (supplier could not find preferred pea gravel). Got a diagonal brace in on the second one and on top of the 3/4 I got the driveway gravel. Also got the edge of the driveway straightened up a bit and spread some of the extra driveway gravel that got displaced by the 3/4 crush down to the end. Slow going but it is getting there. I have taken a couple of clips for a future video on my You Tube channel. I will let you know when it comes out. The first panel has a 14 x 28 access hole/vent cut in it.

I hope this posts...my last 2 posts never showed up.
Remember, minimum code requirement is just that....MINIMUM

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Jim from Canada
Posts: 541
Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2007 10:39 am
Location: Seaforth, ON

Sat Aug 19, 2017 7:34 am

So, I have my partial re skirting done with the concrete panels. I hope the links to the photos embed properly. I got enough done so I could build the new deck at the patio door. The roof over it has not been done yet though. At the other side of the patio stones will be a mirror image deck at the back door.

Image

Image
Remember, minimum code requirement is just that....MINIMUM

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Greg
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Sat Aug 19, 2017 4:53 pm

I hope you have better luck with the roof over than I am having. I made the mistake of talking to my code officer in April and told him what I want to do. I have known him for 20 yrs and never have a problem with him. He claims that New York state requires that ANYONE that does anything structural on a manufactured home be certified. I took the course last week $200 (aced the test). Went back to him and he wants to see the actual certificate from the state. To get the actual certificate I have to spend an other $100 AND post a $5000 bond. I am trying to find a way around the last part.
Gotta love government regulations

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."

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Jim from Canada
Posts: 541
Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2007 10:39 am
Location: Seaforth, ON

Sat Aug 19, 2017 5:41 pm

At under 108 sq. ft, and not attached to the home, there was no permit required. It is overbuilt none the less.
Remember, minimum code requirement is just that....MINIMUM

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Jim from Canada
Posts: 541
Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2007 10:39 am
Location: Seaforth, ON

Wed Sep 06, 2017 3:31 pm

Well, I got a video edited of how I did the partial re-skirting. I only went as far as was needed so I could build the deck for now, but the rest will be done the same.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_ppdFS-VlM
Remember, minimum code requirement is just that....MINIMUM

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