so many questions

[dontcare]

Hey there, new here, I forgot the question I wanted to ask, but I have many to ask.

Just bought a 9? fleetwood(?), my wife loved it, so I got it, now I need to make it "right".

"Right" being relative to what'll work and last. I know "do it right and you only have to do it once", but, $$ is an issue, and if I can cobblestone it 'till I can pave it that'll be fine.

Any and all my previous home repair has always been in foundation type homes, and I have found mobile is a horse of a different color. From sourcing parts to tools needed to materials "commonly" used.

So to begin with I'd like to ask about my plumbing.

There is no venting above the roof...I don't know if they were removed or never had it, but regardless..what I have seen is under the home, which has no insulation or underbelly, the plumbing goes from a drain into a trap that is raised slightly above the height of the "flow"..everything under a drain looks like under a kitchen sink would if you had a "burper" for a dishwasher or a garbage disposal

I think.. it has been awhile since I have seen it.. but does that sound normal?

So I have many more questions but I am gonna try and pace myself ...hahaha..
but so I remember some involve:
doors and windows - can they be made like foundation type? I have 2x4 studs
exterior siding - I have pressed type and it got wet.. should I replace whole 4x8 sheets or try to "cut-in" just the bad.. and how would you seal that.. with flashing?

the mobile is a 14x 80 if I wanted to extend out the side to gain more space would it be best to build pier and beam add-on or should it be post in the ground type? home will never be moved again in my lifetime..

At any rate thanks for letting me onto the boards and when I remember what I was wanting to ask I will ask it haha

[Greg]

Hi & welcome. There is really not much difference between working on a mobile home and a stick built home. The first thing you want to do is use a water level and check the frame to make sure the home is level.
Most parts can be upgraded to stick built from mobile home. Doors & window frames can be opened up to fit standard size.
If you have siding issues you may end up replacing all of it to make it match, there are many choices at the home centers.
Plumbing in a mobile is a bit different. Many use check valve type vents under the counters and most use a roof stack near the toilets.
Mark (the site owner) has written a repair manual available in the "books & parts" section of the site. It covers all aspects of repairs in a generic way.
Feel free to post questions as they come up, lots of people here to help.

Greg

[dontcare]

ah see now I think that was my first initial question .. about lvl..

I paid a guy who came out and did the lvl after I had it moved nearly 300 mi., and he came from the area the trailer was moved from..
now he used the water tube thing, and set blocks and tied it all down, his helper set the perimeter blocks under the doorways, the door in the front works fine, the door at the back, not so much.

everything was working before the move.
At this point everyone is gone and there is noone to call for help.. hence here am I .
the door (in question) opens and shuts without issue, the issue is the locking mechanisms do not line up, the door locks are at least 2 inches higher than the jamb holes. EDIT: actually I think the holes are higher than the locks. EDIT

Is it possible that the helper just added to much shim?
I have a 12 ton piston type jack.
Can I verify this condition before I just randomly try removing excess shims?
Would a 6' lvl determine this or do I again need to use the water tube method and go from the opposite side to door side ?
The door itself appears to have no shims under the base plate

[dontcare]

the holes are higher because I tried to lift the door while closing it and ended up pulling the doorknob through the door itself.. heh, have to fix that later..

[Greg]

Your best bet would be to buy/build a water level and check it yourself. If you are within 1/4" you are fine. I make a "map" of the piers and start in the center as "0" and mark the variations of each pier. Once you have the readings it is not hard to figure out what needs to be done where.

If you use a carpenter's level you may get lucky, but that's what it would be. You can be 1/16" off and still be in the bubble, run that over 80' and you are over an inch off.

Greg

[HouseMedic]

Are you sure that door locked before? That is so far off that if you got it lined up the door would not shut. The hole that is 2" up might have been for a deadbolt lock but there should also be one for the latch lock. Do you have any pictures? They help a lot. Maybe take one of the door area and also the plumbing.

Ron

[dontcare]

ok It has been a while.. so I looked and the locks nearly line up they are only off by a hair...
the locks are lower than the holes and they are so near that it just almost , but doesn't quite go into the holes..
the jambs are steel and have a steel um sliding thing that wont come out because it is larger inside than the hole itself is.. I assume it was put into place before the door assembly was mounted
At any rate I jacked up the home from underneath and removed a shim from that side and got one of the locks to engage but the higher one stil will not .. so I will wait and see if it "settles" and if not I think I will grind a tad off of the deadbolt to get the clearance to have it engage..

Next question
The PO drilled many holes from the exterior to allow for cable into the home, and I wish to plug them up.
The siding is a particle board type and each hole is about an inch in diameter..what would you use to seal these?
I thought silicone but was told it would never dry, because of the size of the hole.. I would think painters ccaulk would crack eventually.. I just need it to seal until I can get it all replaced..
I would like to go with hardi panel all around the outside, but wonder if the home can support the weight without having to be perimeter blocking underneath, and to that end there is this question...If\when I use perimeter blocking does it HAVE to be continuous or can it too be staggered ...? I guess that means on the 80 ft sides do I have to have 80' of end to end blocking or can there be spacing between the bricks ?
so again thanks for your help guyss any info appreciated.