OLD METAL SIDING

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steelworkersgal
Posts: 94
Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2009 1:30 pm
Location: Central Illinois

Hi, its been a while since i last posted on here but i have always gotten good answers and responses to my questions. My home is a 1999 single wide Chandeluer (which is no longer in business). We have done a lot of up grades and remodeling to the inside of our home along with an aluminum roof over which was the best thing we could of done. My question to you is this, the old metal siding is in really good shape no rust or large dings but we have wasps and other insects that crawl up under the ridges of the metal siding and have built homes between the metal and the insulation and the insulation and wall board. I would like to prevent that from happening anymore. Can i seal this bottom opening with foam spray or fiberglass insulation. Will is cause a condensation issue or will it be fine to seal up the bottom seam of the metal sheeting. Thank you
You can do anything if you put your mind to
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Greg
Moderator
Posts: 5696
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

That's a good question, I wish I had a good answer. The theory is that the raised ribs allow for air flow under the panel, but traditional siding even vinyl does not have openings. So I guess my answer would be maybe.

Perhaps others can give a better answer.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
yakima4$
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Oct 20, 2015 11:02 pm

Vertical metal siding is not sealed at the bottom to let the condensate/moisture out that forms on the inside face of it. If you seal bottom edge, moisture will run down the interior face of the metal siding and moisture will collect on the rim joist and wall bottom plates. These homes do not require a vapor barrier on the warm side of the wall for they are considered a vented wall cavity. Some MFG install a vapor barrier some do not. The wall was/is designed to breathe. Not good for heating/cooling bill but homes are aimed at lower cost housing to consumer up front.

Ron
steelworkersgal
Posts: 94
Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2009 1:30 pm
Location: Central Illinois

Thank you for getting back to me so fast. I was hoping i could seal the seam up for that very reason of heat and air loss along with the insects. I guess when i redo the walls i could put a vapor barrier between the metal and the insulation then that should take care of the moisture issue i would think?
You can do anything if you put your mind to
yakima4$
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Oct 20, 2015 11:02 pm

Vapor barrier is to go to the warm side (inside of house) not to outside. On exterior wall under the siding install house wrap to resist wind and water transmission.
If you do replace metal siding with wood/Hardi you need to install a whole house fan to exhaust moisture inside the house. Plus support exterior walls with piers 4ft O.C and at all window and door openings if house does not already have this.
Reason being is that additional weight can make floors sag at sidewalls, headers at doors and windows may not have been designed for this additional weight. This can make doors bind and windows seals fail.
Steve-WA
Posts: 180
Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:04 am
Location: Western Washington, Puget Sound

Buy a roll of fiberglass screen material, and cut a small piece off, ball it up and shove it up the hole. Keeps bugs out, lets water drain. Or better, get some material like the wash-&-reuse furnace filter material, loose open cell material.
Norm Frechette
Posts: 193
Joined: Fri Aug 05, 2011 7:34 am
Location: Norwich, CT

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get some foam gutter guard from the big box hardware store, trim to shape and stuff it in the opening. its porous to let the air in and the moisture out
steelworkersgal
Posts: 94
Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2009 1:30 pm
Location: Central Illinois

Thank you, these are all good ideas. I will defiantly try one of them.
You can do anything if you put your mind to
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