Installing New windows

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
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Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD

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crackur
Posts: 99
Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2009 12:03 pm

I like to game plan ahead of time and I have plenty of honey-dos already but I have a question.

I've research on here, other sites and had someone from a window company come to my house. After all that I think I will be doing most of the work myself (maybe some coworker help in areas I don't feel safe doing).

I have scoped out the windows at lowes and think I will probably end up with the thermastar windows when I do decide to plunge in and start working on them. Currently I have the worst type of windows anyway with the two storm window looking kinds.

I noticed at lowes with the replacement windows they are secured from the inside to make it an easier install. Of course they is more to it than that and I will find out more along the way.

I have some questions for the people who have done this. I have an 87 manufacture home. I have 9 windows and a bow window. 6 windows (approx 32-54s) 3 (32x38/39).

All frames look good with no damage (I was able to check them when I replaced several of these cheap windows when I first moved in. My question is.....what in essence is the amount of work will I be doing? Any quick synopsis ?

I thank you and appreciate your info and help/advice/time.
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Greg
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Posts: 5696
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

Windows are not that hard once you get started. Give yourself a full day for the first one (preferably a nice warm & sunny day) the others will go progressively faster.

Personally I prefer new construction windows over replacement, I just feel they seal easier.
Check your stud width to make sure the windows will fit properly. I would also plan on having to replace at least some of the window frames, a home that age is very likely to have some rot.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
Steve-WA
Posts: 180
Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:04 am
Location: Western Washington, Puget Sound

Cheapest new windows is custom order from lowes; I get the nailing fins, we call 'em Nascar windows - think of a pit crew changing wheels. Butyl tape on the back of the fin, new 1-1/4 inch long, 1/4" hex drive stainless fasteners, easy peasy. Hard part is trimming out inside, and that ain't that hard.
crackur
Posts: 99
Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2009 12:03 pm

Hey steve I sent you an email. Thanks guys for responding. Just trying to find the most convienent way with good windows.
Steve-WA
Posts: 180
Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:04 am
Location: Western Washington, Puget Sound

Didn't getit: [email protected]
crackur
Posts: 99
Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2009 12:03 pm

sent.

Thanks Steve
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JD
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Posts: 2696
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:57 pm
Location: Fresno, CA
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I order the Stucco Fin type frames to fit the finished openings as the factory made them, unless there is a reason for the change. The cost is negligible, usually cheaper, compared to reframing openings to fit standard size / off the shelf windows. I like the Stucco trim fin, because it is the trim to the window. This trim fin gets caulked direct to the exterior wall, totally sealing the window against leakage. I have found that adding wood trim to the exterior of the window will dry out, lose it's seal, warp and allow water to get trapped between the siding and the wood trim. The vinyl trim that is integrated into the vinyl frame is permanent and easily sealed. Here is a short video from Jeld-Wen showing the basic installation. On all but the newer mobile homes, it is easier to just remove the aluminum window frame. If you have those 1/4" screws on the outside of the aluminum frame, just remove the window. If you have a newer manufactured home or have vinyl siding installed over the window screws, to where you just cannot remove the frame, install the windows just as the video shows. Using caulk rod and polyurethane caulk is easier to work with and more efficient than spray foam. Be sure to get the interior trim strips shown in the video. Really cleans up the look on the inside window jam. Here's the video -
Link Correction - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBQq3YjJn-4
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
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JD
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Posts: 2696
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:57 pm
Location: Fresno, CA
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I did have a job where I was replacing only 3 of the windows in a fairly new MH. Using the Stucco trim windows would have looked totally different than the existing windows, which had thin strips of hardboard siding for trim. I opted for Hardie board, cementuous fiber trim, to ensure my trim did not warp, crack or dry out. I had to predrill the fastener holes, as the Hardie stuff is pretty fragile when only a couple of inches wide. But glued and screwed to the siding, it was very strong when completed. It also sealed well to the siding. That's the whole thing on the trim. Be thinking 10 years down the road, you want the trim to stay stable and stay sealed.
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Mark440
Posts: 279
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 8:33 am
Location: Anna, Tx

I replaced all of my windows just a couple years back. I bought all but one at HD, the other at Lowe's. All were special order to get the right sizing. Neither place charged extra fro the special sizing. Oh...I went with the new install with the nail fins.

I started with the windows that were all the same size (8 of the 11). Took one out...set one in. I used a couple pieces of wood to hold the window in place while I went inside to shim top, bottom and sides. Once I was satisfied, I removed all the shims except the bottoms. Then I removed the window - and nailed down the bottom shims. I put a good heavy bead of caulking on the backside of the fins - and then set the window into place. Again, the wood pieces were used to hold the window in place to re-shim the inside permanently. From there, screw down the fins (I used deck screws). I did a few more, then went back and put all new primed trim around them - caulking the backside and outside edges to block water.

Of course, the cardboard factory interior trim had to be all replaced as the new windows set in further than the old aluminum single pane units. I had to rip new trim boards to fit. All in all, the inside was a PITA - but the end result is a hundred times better looking.

FWIW - my electric bill nosed dived with the new windows. I'm all electric - and my winter bill was running about $400. With the new windows - it dropped to $230-250. So, in essence, the windows have pretty much paid for themselves in short order. And i got the tax credit to boot!

One thing to note. All of the window companies that came out were pushing their top of the line stuff. I'm not 100% sold on for vinyl windows - but I am also too stingy with my money to plunk down $250+ for a window in a mobile home.
Opportunity has a shelf life.
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