Intertherm unit replacement

Questions about repairs and parts for Nordyne furnaces, air conditioners and heat pumps for manufactured homes including Intertherm, Mac and Miller brands. Click here for Nordyne parts.

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Robert
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Hey David,

May be on front, some are, but not all, if not may need to remove and look on front of the actual switches.

Can also look on data sticker/nameplate.



Thanks,
Robert
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:) Here's the info you needed:The limit switch is (L130-15F) & the fan is (F110-20F).
I noticed when I pulled it back out that is does have a metal box surrounding the upper portion of the limit switch & nothing below that.
So It must be ok.
No shield has fallen off.
There was a small hole on the top L at the rear of the metal box about 5/8 in. diameter that was clogged with debris so I cleaned it out.
Thought it might be a vent hole where air must flow through.
One of the switches does have a loose bymetal plate on the end & I can rotate it.
Is that ok for it to do that?
The other is a solid round oval type plate which is crimped onto the switch & cannot be rotated.
Wife called me at work today & asked if she should turn the furnace thermostat down in fear it might burn out the motor for being going all night & all day today & I told her it should be ok to leave it alone since its a new motor.
Got home & it appeared to be fine & she had not touched it & it was set on 78 & was cycling when I came in.
At least while its cycling it still keeps the house some what warm.
The burner is still lit while it's cycling.
Hope this helps.
Have a great weekend & let me know your findings. :wink:
David
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer
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Robert
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Hi David,

Which switch has the loose bimetal plate ?



Thanks,
Robert
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:) Mornan Robert
I'll have to pull it back out & see this morning as soon as I wake up.
I beleave it might have been the fan limit switch side cause its positioned right under that 5/8 hole I had mentioned that was plugged with dust bunnies.
Looked like insulation material & not dust though.
No air could go through that hole.
I fully understand now how the furnace & switch works & how it controls the fan & temps.
Once I understand how something works like the veh's I work on It makes more sense to me.
When the weather warms up i'm going to remove the blower & clean it & the inside of the unit.
The blower wheel is really dirty but not real bad.
Found alot of air leaks all throgh the house too like the wall sockets & places where I had drilled holes in the outer wall for cabling.
We have to have ghost :shock: in our house now cause my wife woke up cold this morning telling me she was cold & the thermostat had been turned down to 60.
I told her I got up to check it in the middle of the night but it was on 75 & had not touched it.
It ran all night long.
I hope the motor will be ok.
Have nothing better to do today so I'm going to recheck those motor wiring specs. to day to make sure all the wiring is connected properly.
I'll get back to you in a while with the switch details.
:wink: Sorry for all the chit chat but I love to chat.
Have a great day :)
David
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer
homebuff
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:) Got that info you asked for.
The switch plate that was loose was on the limit side & not the fan side.
I pressed down very lightly on the little plate & it clicked up & down a bit but did'nt hurt it any.
I went ahead & remove the top panel where the flue pipe is & It's a good thing I did cause those small bugs we have been having problems with came swarming out of the cubby hole.
Sprayed them good.
They love that warmth.
I also went ahead & checked the wiring to the motor & up into the upper box where the relay & terminals are.
That lg. green wire I spoke of earlier that I did not attach to anything & wired it back with a wire nut went to the Med High terminal inside the box.
Has two terminal blades with nothing attached to it except the green wire.

Box wiring layout discription is as follows:
Wires coming out of the upper hole:Yellow goes to the (Med Low) blade terminal, Red wire going to the (Low) blade terminal,Green one I spoke of comes from the (Med Low) blade terminal to outside the box & wirenutted out of the way.
The middle hole has two wires going into it,(black & yellow).
A Lg. black wire going to the (High Terminal) blade inside the box,
Yellow going to the(High) terminal as well, tied into the same black wire on the (High) blade terminal looping back to the lower 5 pin molex plug wire nutted to a small yellow wire
The rest I did not remove when replacing the motor I purchased from you a long while back.
The lg green wire is the one i'm concerned about.
If this is too confusing i'll try to get ahold of another digital camera which by the way mine disappeared a while back.
Hope this helps. :)
Thank's
David
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer
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Robert
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Hey David,

You only need the Black going to High speed for a/c and the Red going to Low speed for heat on your furnace along with whichever is the neutral wire.


Red and neutral for heat.

Black and same neutral for cooling.


Give me a couple days for weather to turn here and I'll have more time to see if I can find a compatible fan/limit switch.


How long is the arm on the switch from front facing to back edge of the two switches ?



Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
homebuff
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If you just need a rough measurement without me pulling it back out it's around 3" long.
I've seen on ather sites they offer them anywhere from 3" to 6" long.
It looks identical to the 626292 one that's no longer availble.
I plan on getting another fan switch as well, as soon as you can find me a limit switch.
If you need me to pull it back out I will.
I was just curious why that lg LG wire went into the box to the (Med High) & not attached to anything on the outside.
I figured I might have removed it from the old motor wiring & forgot where it went on the new motor wiring.
The new motor wiring was a bit differant so that's probably why I didn't use it.
I still have the old motor & just out of curiosity i'm going to check to make sure.
But you gave me the correct info I needed
Appreciate you checking on another one. :wink:
David
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer
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Robert
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Hi David,

Those fan & limits are all one piece, with both the fan switch, limit switch, arm and front facing.


Usually any wires not needed or used are wire nutted out of way. You don't need the med. low speed IF that is where it belonged. Otherwise, would need a wiring diagram, do you have one ?



Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
homebuff
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No! Just the basic wiring schematic that came with the new motor.
Can't find it now.
I can find one online somewhere if I need it.
But you've answered my question about the motor wiring hookup so we won't worry about it.
It makes sense the way you explaned it earlier.
Not the one for the whole unit.
Was trying to find a free schematic for my system.
It does have one on the inside panel where the limit switch & transformer is housed.
Shows the thermostat & inside hookups for some componants.
The limit switch is the one with 2 switches across from one another.
The other switch I was referring to was the 3 way rocker fan swith, #631947 $8.12
Fan & Off & On selection.
I broke a small piece off the edge of it using a screw driver trying to remove it from the metal box to worm the limit switch assy. out.
Thank's
David
Have a great evening.
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer
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Robert
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Hey David,

I would just jumper across the fan rocker switch and when this is all resolved, you can go back to 4 wire t-stat with fan switch on t-stat and then you won't need the fan rocker switch at furnace.


Saves a few $$$$$, none of mine on either home are hooked up and they work fine, LOL.


I always advise customers to have as few components as needed to cut down on problems. Just like a water line, the less joints, less chance of leaks.


Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
homebuff
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:) Thank's!!!
That jumper procedure is exactly what I was looking for in the first place so I jump around the rocker switch & use the 5 wire Hunter thermostat, that is if it's still ok.
You were talking about the 2 outer terminals fan & on & leave the center black wire connected I persume.
Jump the thermostat like it wired up for a 4 wire system.
I'll do it once you give me your final answer on the jumping procedure for the fan switch & thermostat wiring & you go ahead & spend the rest of the weekend with your family.
Talk to you later. :wink:
David?
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Robert
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Connect center wire (if it is power in) to the auto wire. Just leave the ON wire where it is, switch won't work with power in wire removed.

Don't jumper switch, remove those two wires and connect with a quick connect (male to female).


IF you connect 4 wires to t-stat, Red to RC or RH (jumper from one to other then), White to W, Green to G and yellow to Y, you should be fine if all is ok elsewhere.


Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
homebuff
Posts: 325
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Robert wrote:Connect center wire (if it is power in) to the auto wire. Just leave the ON wire where it is, switch won't work with power in wire removed.

Don't jumper switch, remove those two wires and connect with a quick connect (male to female).


IF you connect 4 wires to t-stat, Red to RC or RH (jumper from one to other then), White to W, Green to G and yellow to Y, you should be fine if all is ok elsewhere.


Thanks,
Robert

Thanks Robert! Just what I needed.
I'll do it in the morning.
No need to reply back.
Have a great remaining weekend.
David
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer
homebuff
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:? Was going to tackle the prodedure by what you told me to do but it got a little confusing.
The rocker switch terminals are as follows,#1 is (on) orange wire ,#2 is (off) black( which is the power-in, #3 is (fan) blue wire.
The auto wire is the one I do not see unless your talking about the (fan) terminal.
The (on) oarnge wire terminal goes directly to the top terminal on the limit control plate.
Your saying to remove both the (fan) terminal #2 & the (off) terminal #3 wires & connect them together?.
The male & female connection is what's got me confused
Both are female blades terminals on the wires that connect directly to the rocker switch.
I wished I had my camera so I could send you the schematic on the rear of the panel.
That is what i'm seeing on the schematic the way the wires are layed out.
Sorry for being a little slow. :?
I'm not touching it till we get this resolved how to connect them.
Later :)
David
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer
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Robert
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Hey David,

Fan = auto
Off = off
On = Continuous

Blue and Black connected together. Either get a two sided male terminal connector and connect them and then wrap with elect. tape.

Or, cut off the female connector from one, strip back insulation, crimp on a male connector and then connect the two and tape.

:)


Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
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