Need refurbished gas valve & tube

Questions about repairs and parts for Nordyne furnaces, air conditioners and heat pumps for manufactured homes including Intertherm, Mac and Miller brands. Click here for Nordyne parts.

Moderators: Greg, Mark

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homebuff
Posts: 325
Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:38 am
Location: sallisaw, okla. 74955
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Sat Feb 08, 2014 11:42 am

Robert!
I replaced the limit switch a while back from you guys that you had to rebuild for me hoping it would solve my Intertherm model MGH-055-ABW36C67 gas furnace not heating up hot enough but did not resolve the problem.
The gas valve model is 36C67 Type177 part# is 6243700
The weather here has been so cold with a lot of snow.
I want to go ahead & purchase this valve & perhaps the tube as well with the orifice intact.
Let me know if it will work in my furnace.
I'm having to use 4 floor heaters & all are safe but makes my heating bill sky high.
Two are a electric oil radiator type & the other two are electric grid type.
No dangerous type space heaters used cause I heard they are not safe to use for causing fires.
They are too high to use anyway.
I want them as soon as possible so send me the correct ones once I see the prices.
I did at one time a long while back removed the orifice assembly & cleaned out the orifice for possible spider webs & trash with a cleaning device & reinstalled & still the same.
I tampered with the adjustable pilot valve screw a long while back up some to keep the pilot light from going out when the wind was blowing hard.
The flame would come out weak & flickering & not blowing the flame out strong.
I suspected it may have a crack in the heat exchanger but inspected it myself & it showed to be ok.
I do have some small cut open places in the under belly where I had to gain access to some grey plastic type polybutholene (sorry for the misspell), water pipes & repair the leaks at the hot pipes t-joints 1/2 to 3/4 inch fittings.
The belly warp had no affect on the furnace heating up cause it worked fine before when the underbelly was open when it was working before.
They seem to be the only ones that split into.
The reason I haven't been on here in quite awhile is I was diog. with Lukemia earlier stage back in June & Have been taking chemo & had to have a blood transfusion & two bone marrow biopsies & soon to have a bone marrow transplant.
On my last stage of Chemo for 6 months & should be ok after that the doctor told me.
Let me know something soon!
Thanks!
David :D
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer


homebuff
Posts: 325
Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:38 am
Location: sallisaw, okla. 74955
Contact:

Sat Feb 08, 2014 2:38 pm

homebuff wrote:Robert!
I replaced the limit switch a while back from you guys that you had to rebuild for me hoping it would solve my Intertherm model MGH-055-ABW36C67 gas furnace not heating up hot enough but did not resolve the problem.
The gas valve model is 36C67 Type177 part# is 6243700
The weather here has been so cold with a lot of snow.
I want to go ahead & purchase this valve & perhaps the tube as well with the orifice intact.
Let me know if it will work in my furnace.
I'm having to use 4 floor heaters & all are safe but makes my heating bill sky high.
Two are a electric oil radiator type & the other two are electric grid type.
No dangerous type space heaters used cause I heard they are not safe to use for causing fires.
They are too high to use anyway.
I want them as soon as possible so send me the correct ones once I see the prices.
I did at one time a long while back removed the orifice assembly & cleaned out the orifice for possible spider webs & trash with a cleaning device & reinstalled & still the same.
I tampered with the adjustable pilot valve screw a long while back up some to keep the pilot light from going out when the wind was blowing hard.
The flame would come out weak & flickering & not blowing the flame out strong.
I suspected it may have a crack in the heat exchanger but inspected it myself & it showed to be ok.
I do have some small cut open places in the under belly where I had to gain access to some grey plastic type polybutholene (sorry for the misspell), water pipes & repair the leaks at the hot pipes t-joints 1/2 to 3/4 inch fittings.
The belly warp had no affect on the furnace heating up cause it worked fine before when the underbelly was open when it was working before.
They seem to be the only ones that split into.
The reason I haven't been on here in quite awhile is I was diog. with Lukemia earlier stage back in June & Have been taking chemo & had to have a blood transfusion & two bone marrow biopsies & soon to have a bone marrow transplant.
On my last stage of Chemo for 6 months & should be ok after that the doctor told me.
Let me know something soon!
Thanks!
David :D
From Mark or Greg too!
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer

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Greg
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY
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Sun Feb 09, 2014 9:30 am

David, your best bet would be to call Mark at the store, 605-229-2627. When it comes to furnace systems I know just enough to make me dangerous. I heat with pellets, our furnace runs maybe once or twice a year to keep the pipes warm in subzero weather.

Sorry I didn't see the post yesterday, I was unloading another ton of pellets - should get us through the rest of winter.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."

homebuff
Posts: 325
Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:38 am
Location: sallisaw, okla. 74955
Contact:

Sun Feb 09, 2014 9:49 am

:D Thanks Greg!
I found a way to go to the products link & select The part # is 6243700 but I still have to select the correct orifice tube assembly to fit the regulator.
Have a great Sunday!
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer

homebuff
Posts: 325
Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:38 am
Location: sallisaw, okla. 74955
Contact:

Mon Mar 03, 2014 1:39 pm

Well about a week ago we had to use out ac for the first time & when I tried selecting the ac heat sw The ac selection was tricky trying to stay in the ac position & had to wiggle a bit to keep it on.
I decided to take the frt. off the thermostat which by the way was a digital Hunter non programmable one & found on the temp up & down selector circuit board it was burnt where the button presses down on the pod to change the temp up or down to set the temp.
I was going to change out the regulator but went ahead & purchased a new digital Honywell programmable thermostat.
Now I have to figure out how to use the program feature.
So confusion! :?
Opened up the main gas meter out at the main meter & now waiting till all the air dispurses before lighting the pilot light.
Praying the new thermostat will stop the heater to keep shutting off & on too much & warming up the vents.
I already purchased a rebuilt limit switch off here a long while back & that didn't fix my problem.
I need to get it working cause the wife & I are freezing.
Thanks for any added support about if the new thermostat will fix the heater problem.
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer


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Greg
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY
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Mon Mar 03, 2014 7:18 pm

homebuff wrote:Well about a week ago we had to use out ac for the first time
I really hope you are not looking for much from me, It's 2* outside right now and expected to go -10 overnight!! We have had enough of winter!!!!! :(

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."

homebuff
Posts: 325
Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:38 am
Location: sallisaw, okla. 74955
Contact:

Tue Mar 04, 2014 9:19 am

Greg wrote:
homebuff wrote:Well about a week ago we had to use out ac for the first time
I really hope you are not looking for much from me, It's 2* outside right now and expected to go -10 overnight!! We have had enough of winter!!!!! :(

Greg
I pray your snow goes away real soon Greg. :D
We are freezing ourselves in here with out the heater working properly.
The 4 small heaters just doesn't cut it in this very low temps.
I wory more about the pipes.
BRRR!!!
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer

homebuff
Posts: 325
Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:38 am
Location: sallisaw, okla. 74955
Contact:

Tue Mar 04, 2014 9:22 am

I turned the gas back on at the meter yesterday evening & going to give the heater a try once I light the pilot light.
We even got us another used stove in good shape & opening the valve on it too & its a electronic spark type.
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer

homebuff
Posts: 325
Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:38 am
Location: sallisaw, okla. 74955
Contact:

Tue Mar 04, 2014 10:43 am

homebuff wrote:I turned the gas back on at the meter yesterday evening & going to give the heater a try once I light the pilot light.
We even got us another used stove in good shape & opening the valve on it too & its a electronic spark type.
:? I'm now trying my best getting air out of the gas lines.
The gas at the outside meter has been shut off by me for quite sometime & started at the stove since its the closest to the meter.
Then I tried at the heater & still can't get the pilot light to light at the furnace.
The stove keeps sparking & still can't smell any gas & can gear the gas flowing when the knob is turned past the spark stage.
I want to do this as safely as possible.
Before I contact a gas man I wanted to hear back from you guys.
It will cost me to have one come in & help me.
Any secrets on how to hold that darn furnace door open while I try to light the pllot?
Thanks! :wink:
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer

DaleM
Posts: 385
Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2010 10:07 am

Tue Mar 04, 2014 3:26 pm

Take one screw out of the furnace pilot door and slide it up out of the way.

homebuff
Posts: 325
Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:38 am
Location: sallisaw, okla. 74955
Contact:

Thu Mar 06, 2014 11:23 am

DaleM wrote:Take one screw out of the furnace pilot door and slide it up out of the way.
No need to now DaleM!
Furnace is working fine right after I get up on the roof & move the black plastic away from the flue pipe.
Thanks! :wink:
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer

DaleM
Posts: 385
Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2010 10:07 am

Fri Mar 07, 2014 9:19 am

Well there's one I haven't run into yet!! Glad you're up and running.

homebuff
Posts: 325
Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:38 am
Location: sallisaw, okla. 74955
Contact:

Fri Mar 07, 2014 9:47 am

DaleM wrote:Well there's one I haven't run into yet!! Glad you're up and running.
:) If your speaking of my plastic cover on the roof Dalem, I draped some over the large gap in our metal roof seam whefe the roof panels join together till the weather gets warmer to mix up some roof cement in between the gap.
The weather has been so clod not even aluminum tape will stick to the seam.
I have to get up there today & move the plastic tarp away form the furnuce vent cap.
You would crack up if you saw how I rigged up the boards & tarp over the gap.
I thought of getting some rivets & silocone & fill the gap & install the rivets on the open seam to finish the sealing.
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer

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